Fall voyage: Plan the perfect getaway

 

Editor’s note: The holiday season is almost upon us. Every year, as the days become shorter and the air thinner, we begin daydreaming about our festival vacations. This week, we have put together a very special list of places to visit and things to do—some familiar, some not so much, with an itinerary based on our team’s personal experiences. 

 

From Manganiyars jamming on the streets of Rajasthan to travelling minstrels in rural Bengal, here’s the splainer guide to haunted hill stations, black sand beaches, and erstwhile French colonies.

 

Jodhpur

 

There’s music everywhere you look in Jodhpur. Step out to a restaurant or cafe and you’re likely to spot a group of Manganiyars jamming away as patrons look on in awe. (The Manganiyars are a community of folk musicians from the Thar region; we’ve come to know and love them through their stints on Coke Studio, with Mame Khan a particular star). A visit to Jodhpur does demand a tour of the stately Mehrangarh fort overlooking the Blue City from its hilltop vantage. It is home to folk music festivals (including the famous Jodhpur RIFF) that provide livelihood to the diverse folk artists of Rajasthan. 

 

But apart from the usual sight-seeing, we recommend exploring the city’s free-wandering spirit and its musical heart. Shop at the old Clock Tower Market—the famous Ghanta Ghar—or the market near Sojati Gate, where you can test and purchase folk instruments that the Manganiyars use in their music. We bought the morchang—the Rajasthani Jew’s Harp—but, let’s be honest, it doesn’t sound nearly as playful and divine when we play it. But, hey, it makes for a seriously cool souvenir.

 

How to get there: A short flight or an overnight train from Delhi. 

 

Shantiniketan

 

This is to Calcuttans what Lonavala is to Mumbaikars. Best-known globally as Rabindranath Tagore’s home, it’s also the site for his Visva Bharati University whose campus includes all the staples: the Tagore Museum, the Uttarayan Complex which was his residence, the very interesting Kalo Bari or Black House, which you have to see to believe, and the stained-glass prayer hall Upasana Griha.

 

Once you have snapped out of the dazzle of legacy, we recommend the serene Sonajhuri forest (and the weekly Saturday afternoon bazaar that local artisans set up there), close to the Kopai river. Do check out the rural artists’ cooperative society Amar Kutir’s establishment nearby. Food-wise, if you’re staying at the luxurious and tasteful Amoli, sample their sinful Tagine mutton platter and the vegetarian sapo (claypot, in Chinese) rice.

You must also try the pocket-friendly Bengali thalis at Vanalakshmi (pronounced ‘Bonolokkhi’ locally). The rice is served with dollops of their homemade ghee, which you can purchase separately for your return back home. Do call the establishment and book a spot because they don’t entertain walk-ins for dining. We also recommend the Chhaya Ghar cafe for a leisurely adda over non-veg momos, rolls, pakoras and sandwiches.

 

Bonus tip: From December to March, Shantiniketan hosts the huge annual fair called Poush Mela, where Baul musicians perform and artisans sell their wares. They arrive not just from nearby localities but from all over the world. This begins around 7th of the Bengali month Poush, which coincides with or around December 23. At the entrance gate, you should get the programme details which will help you plan the day better. Carry newspapers to sit on the ground for the musical performances as there will be no sitting arrangement. The mercury will drop around evening so carry warm clothes. Prep to shop a suitcase’s worth of jewellery, clothes and home accessories because the market is that good.

Do note that this fair attracts crowds over 10,000, but Shantiniketan altogether has a limited lodging capacity. So start searching hotels and homestays right now if you are planning a trip. We recommend the previously mentioned Amoli and the equally serene Srirangam homestay.

How to get there: It’s 160 km from Kolkata and easily reachable by trains from Howrah.

 

Varkala

 

Kerala’s beauty is unpredictable, jagged, raw. And Varkala, a tiny beach town 90 minutes from Thiruvananthapuram, embodies that spirit. It’s set up on the spectacular (and very rare) formation called the Varkala Formation—a cliff overlooking the sea. You can also visit the 2000-year-old Janardana Swami Temple—and in the time to spare, join the many surfing enthusiasts (both first-timers and pros) who descend upon Varkala to chase the waves. There’s also a lovely and unusual black sand beach in Varkala (see image below). 

 

We prefer loafing about the busy cafes and restaurants around the helipad on the popular North Cliff, which offers stunning views of the sea and serves as the entry point to all the food joints and touristy knicknacks shops. Pig out on the exquisite food—local and beyond— at God’s Own Country Kitchen, which does splendid Kerala cuisine, or the sandwiches at the popular Cafe Del Mar. For a change of pace, head to Little Tibet for music and momos. 

 

How to get there: A 90-minute drive from Thiruvananthapuram. (Alcohol is strictly regulated in Kerala so plan accordingly.)

 

Kurseong

 

Darjeeling is now way too commercialised and crowded, much like Shimla. Instead, we recommend you visit the quieter Kurseong, 30 km from the city. It’s widely known for its tea gardens. You must try the locally produced tea at Makaibari Tea Estate. The usual attractions like these, though, you will find online. The reason we have slipped Kurseong into this list is because… get ready… of its reputation of being a haunted place. 

 

In particular, the Dow Hill region of Kurseong is supposed to be one of the most haunted places in India. For its peculiar geographical positioning and specific flora (mostly, pine trees), the air in Dow Hill indeed feels spooky. For more thrills, you must check out the one and only abandoned church there—just ask a local.

 

Another eerie place is Eagle's Crag, a wonderful garden on the top of the hill with magnificent views. The garden includes a watchtower, cheerily called Suicide Point, because, the eyes can confirm this area has a vertical slope, not slanting. What we cannot confirm is local hearsay about some ancient suicide happening at this spot.

 

So, if you want to pretend like you are inside a Japanese horror film like Ringu, or walk up the hill like you're inside a Keigo Higashino mystery, this is the place.

 

Bonus tip: If you really want to up the ante about giving yourself a sensorial freak-out, do try the Dow Hill Death Road stretch, preferably in the morning or the evening. (In good conscience, we cannot recommend nights, but, hey, fortune prefers the brave). The Death Road snakes through the hills, the intimidating thicket of pine trees looming over you on either side. The cold weather will ensure you can’t see too far ahead. So, perhaps, travel with a group. We don’t want reports of a couple mysteriously last seen after reading splainer.

How to get there: Reachable via Bagdogra airport and New Jalpaiguri railway station.

 

Fort Kochi

 

We did a brilliant ‘48 hours in Kochi,’ chock full of wonderful things to do, places to eat and more—written by Kochi resident and splainer alum Sarah Verghese. Hang at the David Hall Art Café in a 17th-century Dutch colonial home, take a heritage walking tour with the Kochi Heritage Project. Or grab the equivalent of a Mallu dhaba meal at Vellakkanthaari. Check out the guide here. 

 

Bonus tip: We strongly recommend a visit to the Jew Town neighbourhood, a mere 20 minutes away. The Matancherry Palace and the Paradesi Synagogue are the highlights here, as are all the spice shops that Kochi is famous for. Be sure to spend time at the ittar stores in the market. Tell them your favourite perfume and they’ll immediately whip out a tiny bottle—and you’ll walk out smelling like a dream. 

 

How to get there: A 60-minute drive from Kochi airport.

 

Puducherry

 

There’s lots to do in Puducherry: the Aurobindo ashram, the beaches, the museums and memorials, the gothic churches and city architecture, Auroville with its own unique ways of the world. We, however, have put together a bougie food pilgrimage to Pondi (or Pudu, perhaps?). 

 

The old French quarters are a haven for Tamil and European food. Coromandel Cafe is the popular choice and well worth the hype (we’re still lusting over the haddock fish and chips with some fusion dips that we tried there). But it’s always packed so go very early. Or try the restaurant at Villa Shanti hotel for their Indo-French cuisine: some great shepherd’s pie, perhaps, alongside their massive basket of fries for a carbs overload? We also recommend the Le Dupleix for some impeccable chicken confit. Cafe des Arts has its famous mural wall that everyone must pose at, but they’re also worth a late afternoon visit for snacks and fresh lime soda. Celine’s Kitchen does a nice pepperoni pizza, and offers an open, welcoming energy. The restaurant in Villa Helena has batter-fried calamari that, with a beer and the pretty lights in their courtyard, hits the spot instantly. For dessert, a short walk away, get a chocolate eclair at the famous Baker Street. And that’s just to start. 

 

Bonus tip: Check out the Arikamedu ruins, a fascinating archaeological site that may have been a Greek trading post during the Roman era, going all the way back to 1 or 2 BCE. 

 

How to get there: A four-hour drive from Chennai. 

 

Shillong

 

There’s never a bad time to visit a place as beautiful and giving as Shillong. October-November offers pleasant weather to take a walk and feed the fishes at Wards Lake. Regardless of whether you are staying at the luxurious Pinewood Hotel, which we highly recommend, do make a note of trying their restaurant if you are in the mood to splurge. We recommend their meat pies in particular.

 

For more scenic pleasures, check out Elephant Falls, a two-tier waterfall shaped like an elephant's trunk. The real deal, however, is in Cherrapunji, or what is locally called Sohra. It’s a two-hour drive from Shillong and we urge you to take a pitstop on the way at Cafe Cherrapunjee.

 

The food in the region is to die for. In Sohra, try pork innards. It's called ‘Dohjem’ in Khasi so look for that in the menus. The Chinese cuisine at the Eee Cee in Police Bazar is a must-try, especially the chicken noodles. For a change of pace, get the Bihari-origin aloo muri near Pine Mount School. Of course, local Khasi basics like Jadoh (rice with meat) and momos have to be on your list. 

 

Bonus tip: For the best of the best, travel 40 minutes away to Mylliem village, where you have to try the yellow or red rice with beef/pork curry. 

How to get there: Just a three-hour drive from Guwahati airport.

 

Goa

 

There are a hundred different ways to do Goa. The standard touristy one with all the mainstream beaches and restaurants. The serene solo traveller in search of meaning. The parties and raves. Allow us, though, to suggest something different. Use our shopping guide to find the best goods in the area. This list, written by Noor Anand Chawla, is perfect for when you’re in the mood for a shopping spree. If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, combine it with our travel guide, and you have yourself a whole trip’s worth of things to do.

 

Bonus tip: Our guides, if we do say so ourselves, are a treasure trove of cool information about Goa. 

 

How to get there: A short flight from Mumbai, or a long, scenic drive/train ride.