The other Goa: 48 hours in Panjim

Editor’s note: Culture writer and Goa resident Poulomi Das offers a guide to the other Goa–far from the madding crowds of the usual beach bars. Discover ceramic studios, bird-watching trails, museums and, of course, gastronomical delights.

Written by: Poulomi Das is an independent film and culture journalist based in Goa. You can follow her on Insta and on X(Twitter). 

There is perhaps no state in India that is simultaneously romanticised and misunderstood quite like Goa. The same holds true for Panjim. Indeed, two days are hardly enough to truly explore the town–but they offer an entry point into its tapestry of sights and the sounds. Just leave your stereotypes at the door.

Where do I stay?

The White Balcao: If you’re a solo budget traveller, look no further than The White Balcao. A charming hostel repurposed from a 100-year-old house, The White Balcao offers beds in four-bed dorm rooms along with breakfast. In addition to the rooms, solo travellers can also make use of the cafe, common room, and an upstairs chill-out-area. (Dorm rooms start at Rs 1,000 per night)

The Old Quarter Hostel: This hostel is another pocket-friendly option, centrally located in Fontainhas, the old Latin Quarter in Panjim. But I’d suggest looking beyond the dorm rooms and booking a private bedroom in the cosy property, a perfect combination of rustic and modern, minimalistic design. There’s a cafe for all your people-watching needs and you could also rent out bicycles from the property if you’re so inclined. (Double rooms start at Rs 2,500 per night)

Surya Kiran Heritage Hotel: What’s a Panjim trip without a stay at a 100-year-old Portuguese villa on leafy grounds? With only five rooms, Suryakiran Heritage Hotel remains a tourist favourite for its ease of access and quiet neighbourhood. Located at a five-minute walk from Fontainhas, the property is ideal for exploring Panjim’s endless alleys and Miramar beach. Expect heritage furniture in your rooms, a pool, and exposed wood beam ceilings. (Rooms start at Rs 5,500 per night.)

Bay 15: Then there is the sprawling Bay 15 if you are craving some quiet luxury by the sea. Choose from the 16 Swiss-inspired luxury wooden chalets, equipped with balconies and surrounded by palm trees overlooking Oxdel beach. Direct access to the beach is accompanied by majestic sunrise and sunset views that will invariably have you reach out for your camera. A pool and a pier-like seafront restaurant equipped with live music lets you soak it all in. Think of it as your Goan postcard coming to life. Bay 15 is located six kilometres from Panjim so staying at the property makes sense if you have a rental car or bike at your disposal. (Sea view rooms start at Rs 7,000 per night)

Day 1

The best way to get around Goa is to rent a bike or car—which are readily available near the airport and railway station. Alternatively, you may call for a cab. A highly recommended local app is Goa Miles. (Cycling Zens offers cycles and e-bikes for daily and weekly rentals so you can also cycle around) But ask anyone and they will tell you that the best way to experience Panjim’s old town is on foot. 

Start your first day with a leisurely morning walk around the colourful alleys of Fontainhas (map). Spot ornamental oyster-shell window panes — wooden windows fitted with translucent oyster shells in a host of patterns reminiscent of a bygone past — on traditional Goan houses on the way. (Both Alfonso Guest House (map) and Panjim Inn (map) have such windows so keep an eye out!). Alternatively, sign up for a guided Fontainhas heritage walk with Make It Happen. 

Breakfast: What makes a morning walk more satisfying is when it leads to breakfast. Make your way to Cafe Tato (map) where the buns are out when the sun is. Started in 1913, Cafe Tato (tato translates to uncle in Konkani) is a Goan breakfast institution where the servers are prompt and the vegetarian breakfast, always hearty. I love pairing the yellowish sweetened buns with the sukhi bhaji and polishing it off with a cup of milky tea. But you can also opt for puris with the bhaji and pair it with a milkshake instead. Also on offer are signature Goan breakfast dishes like the alsande bhaji (black-eyed peas curry) and the patal bhaji (coconut-based curry with white peas), both of which can be mopped up with a plate of fluffy puris. 

Take a walk: Once you’re done with breakfast, make a stop at the nearby Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception (map), Panjim’s pearly white spiritual, geographical, and cultural landmark, thronged by incessant selfie-takers. Built in 1619 over a small chapel and colloquially dubbed as the “Panjim church,” it used to be the first stop for sailors from Lisbon before they continued further east up the river. 

Right opposite is Singbal’s Book House (map), Goa’s oldest bookstore and an architectural marvel. Take refuge from the sun, browse through the meticulously maintained shelves, and pick up a title that can bookmark your Panjim adventure.

A brisk 10-minute hike to the imposing orange Maruti temple (map) perched up the Altinho hillside will have you admiring panoramic views over the Old Quarter from its verandah. 

Spring time: When you’re done soaking in the vire, make your way to the surprise that awaits you at the base of the Altinho hills: Font Phoenix or the Phoenix springs (some trivia: the neighbourhood of Fontainhas is named after these springs). From the outside, the structure looks like an unassuming gated yellow tank with no signage. But walk down the steps and you will discover that you’re at one of the three freshwater springs in Panjim, comprising a public bath that connects to a horseshoe-shaped vaulted tunnel. 

Filled with cold water that flows out from the lateritic rocks and aquifers situated on the base of the hills, the walls of the tunnel are a sight to behold, decorated with crosses and carvings. Lit and ventilated by three domed towers that are interspersed along the length of the tunnel, these freshwater springs — built during Portuguese rule — once used to be the city’s lifeline. It’s essentially history you can touch. 

Lunch: Now that you have worked up an appetite, head to Horseshoe Bar and Restaurant (map) for your first meal, inarguably the best place to dine in Panjim. Run by Chef Vasco Silviera, Horseshoe serves a delectable array of Luso-Goan cuisine — a rich blend of Goan cuisine and Portuguese flavours — attracting a fiercely loyal group of customers. 

Born in Malange-Angola, then Portuguese Africa, Silviera came to Goa in 1977 after serving in the Portuguese army and started Horseshoe three years later. A non-vegetarian’s delight and a favourite among chefs, Horseshoe sources all ingredients locally; spices are ground in-house, and Silviera still cooks most of the dishes himself. Order the clams in white wine, feijoada (a bean stew with beef and pork), roast beef tongue, chorizo pulao, serradura, and pair it with glasses of Silviera’s homemade wine. 

Please note: Horseshoe is only open between late-October and early June, during peak tourist season in Goa. 

As an alternative to Horseshoe, you can try Kokni Kanteen (map) which serves up quintessential coastal Konkani fare, including the much-loved fish thali, which comes replete with rawa fried fish (usually white snapper or kingfish), a prawn curry, dried mackerel with coconut (also known as kismoor), a vegetable option, and some kokum soda or sol kadi to wash it down with. Vegetarians, don’t fret–there’s a veg thali option as well, so you don’t miss out on the delicacies. 

Or you can head to Chakos (map), a lockdown Kerala pickle business turned into an inviting Malayali restaurant, replete with chequered floors that look out to the Rua De Ourem creek. The vegetarian thalis come topped with thoran, avial, and pulissery along with sambar, pappadam, and rice. Order the podi fries and the jackfruit cutlet on the side for a susegad-worthy meal. 

For non-vegetarians, the options are limitless: choose between their Malabar beef biryani or mop up the raw mango prawn curry with parottas and appams but keep room for the curry leaf fried prawns, stir fried pork with raw bananas and pazhampori. 

Culture trip: For some low-key afternoon exploring, drive to Museum of Goa (map) in Pilerne, a three-storey contemporary art space founded by Goan artist Subodh Kerkar. Expect to discover art and installations by local artists, which narrate the past and present of life and culture in Goa. Look out for the striking paintings of Goan fisherwomen at work. 

Alongside the art on display, there are also curated artist-led exhibitions on display at Museum of Goa. If you’re there on a Sunday, don’t miss the illuminating panels and workshops on art, travel, and culture that the gallery regularly hosts. In case you’re not looking to pick up some art, Museum of Goa comes equipped with a gift shop where you can buy souvenirs and even clothes. 

Sail away! No Goa trip is complete without some good old sunset chasing and why should you not have all the fun? For an unforgettable experience, hire a luxury yacht with Yacht Club and go sunset sailing with your loved ones and some bubbly to boot. There’s never a better time to surrender to the magic and mystique of the Goan breeze.

Dinner: In the last few years, Panjim has swiftly turned into a playground for restaurants that reimagine traditional Goan and Portuguese cuisines. Petisco (map) is one such gastronomical experience that is a favourite of both locals and tourists. The name is Portuguese for “small eats” or tapas–so the menu is divided into small and large plates and is tailor-made both for eating alone and with company with plenty of standout vegetarian options as well. Try the buffalo mozzarella salad, dill gnocchi, pan-fried mackerel with triphal-infused beurre blanc, or roast chicken. They also do a banger smoked gin and tonic that goes very well with anything you order. 

Or you can head to Grumps (map): The latest entrant to the vibrant restaurant scene in Goa, Grumps is housed in the backyard of a charming 100-year-old Portuguese villa in Sangolda, a 20-minute drive from Panjim. Founders Kartik Vasudeva and Agrini Satyarthi have previously worked at Mumbai’s O Pedro and The Bombay Canteen as well as Bomras and Izumi in Goa, so they are more than equipped to match endless vibes with mouth-watering food. 

Expect Asian-style tapas and fruity, flawless spirit-forward cocktails that will ensure that the conversation keeps flowing. The menu is relatively short so order everything on it (especially the pork chops and the salmon tartare) because Grumps is a place meant for an indulgence, resulting in the kind of night that you can’t stop thinking about.

Drinks: There’s no better way to cap off a Panjim adventure than with some bar-hopping. To get the lay of the (alcoholic) land, start off with some rounds of feni at Miski Bar (map), a neighbourhood community bar, and then walk to António (map), a cheery tapas bar around the corner to down some feni cocktails. The Bimbli Gin Sour is an absolute knockout. 

Time for Music: Next on the lineup is For The Record (FTR) Vinyl Bar (map), a bar dedicated to vinyl records. The intimate space boasts a cocktail menu designed with a commitment to championing local spirits, indigenous condiments, and fermentation techniques. Listen to some retro tunes as you sip on a Feni Colada or a Soul Curry, a coconut milk washed feni infused with solkadi spices (their vegetarian and non-vegetarian sourdough pizzas are a standout too.) On Tuesdays, there’s live music at FTR to look forward to.

But if you’re in the mood to croon your favourite tunes, head to Down the Road (map) for their Thursday karaoke nights that promise late-night easy-going vibes capable of transporting you back to Goa in the 1990s. 

Day 2:

Gone to the birds: It’s bird-spotting day! Wake up early and drive to Ribandar Ferry (map). From there, board the ferry (with your car!) and cross over on the Mandovi river to reach Chorao Island that houses the Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary. Named after India’s best known ornithologist, it is Goa’s only bird sanctuary and houses over 400 species of birds, both local and migratory. 

The sanctuary is open from 6 am everyday so I’d recommend heading as early as 7.30 am so you can avoid the tourist rush. Experience the beauty of the lush island on a boat and as you manoeuvre through the narrow mangroves. Expect to spot mudskippers, flying foxes, jackals, crocodiles besides sightings of colourful kingfishers, woodpeckers, egrets, and curlews. 

Please note: You can hire an entire small boat from the Sanctuary Department or join a large group. Alternatively, sign up with Cycling Zens for a bird sanctuary mangrove kayaking tour or a cycling tour across Chorao Island.

Breakfast: Head to Padaria Prazeres (map), Goa’s famed bakery and cafe, for some well-deserved pick-me-ups. Pull up a chair outdoors and bask in the morning sun as you wait for your table to be filled up with food. Their flaky pastel de natas — Portuguese egg custard tarts — are downright delicious, certainly the best version available in the country. Pair them with the egg mayo sandwich, smoked salmon cream cheese bagel, prawn cocktail sandwich, or the tuna mayo sandwich and a side of your favourite hot beverage or their iced teas. I find it impossible to leave without packing some desserts for the road, so if you’re in a similar mood, order a takeaway portion of their banana bread and some custard berliners.

An artsy break: Visit the lovely Sunaparanta – Goa Centre for the Arts (map), an art gallery in a renovated Portuguese house in the middle of a beautiful garden filled with champa trees. Walk around the sprawling courtyard — home to Cafe Bodega — and take in the big wooden doors, tiled floors, and roofs that slope inwards before making your way inside the rooms. On display until November is ArQhive: Early Modern Contemporary Visions, a show that “takes its inspiration from the collection of watercolours produced in sixteenth and seventeenth-century Goa.” 

Then, head to Thomas The Potter (map), a ceramic studio and store run by Thomas Louis. With over 25 years of experience in making and teaching art, Thomas specialises in tableware and sculptural figurines that explore textures of the sea and underwater so if you’re looking to add some unique pieces to your collection, you are in the right place. Besides his own work, the studio displays work from emerging independent artists. Every month, Thomas also takes a pottery course where you learn basic hand-building techniques as well as an introduction to the wheel. Keep an eye on their Instagram for details. 

Right next door is Nada (Sanskrit for sound, tone, or vibration), a sunny ceramic store where you can pick up handmade porcelain pieces that subvert assumptions and expectations of ceramic artistry produced in India. Each piece is a sensory delight and as you marvel at the creativity, sip on their artisanal coffee in the 45 Tasting Room, nestled within the space. 

End the afternoon at Azulejos de Goa (map), a gallery-meets-home where you can pick up art pieces and hand-painted tiles made by local artists. Located inside Orlando De Noronha’s 250-year-old house, the 20-year-old Panjim store is a time-machine back to Goa’s art, culture, and history. 

The house is an architectural marvel in itself and there is also a balcao dedicated to the legendary Mario Miranda. In that space, Noronha stocks his coasters, wall art, plates, mugs, and his work on tiles. Here, you also have the opportunity to learn to make and paint your own ceramic tiles under the guidance of Orlando who conducts tile-making workshops on appointment. 

Lunch: For a fish thali to end all fish thalis, queue up for a table at Bombil (map). A small cosy spot with mural-covered walls and ever-smiling servers, the Bombil thali features rice, fried fish, curries as well as accompaniments such as clams, two types of fresh pickles, dry anchovies, and at times, brined raw mango. Order a portion of their juicy rava prawns on the side and you will have the perfect recipe for a satisfying afternoon siesta. There’s a hearty vegetarian thali made with fresh ingredients on the menu too. 

Or, if you’re not feeling a fish thali (or the queue at Bombil is just too long), head to Route 66 (Map) for an all-American meal with some great music and old-school ambience to match. Treat yourself to a hickory-smoked pulled pork sandwich, or a Superbowl Reuben in a rye bun that really packs a punch, especially with the Monterey Jack cheese. They also have a yummy set of milkshakes, including a vanilla coconut number, which also has Bounty chocolate whipped in. Fun! 

Time to shop: Head to Casa Macao (map), a family-run store that sells intricate Macao crockery at wholesale prices. Look out for delicate dinner sets, serving dishes and bowls, blue-and-white teapots. Bacak in the day, Macao and Goa were both Portuguese colonies which explains the fascination with the fine crockery in the state. If you’re worried about carrying the crockery back home, take your pick and ask them to ship it to your address. 

To pick up some laidback dresses and shirts made out of natural fabrics, head to O.M.O (map) and look no further than No Nasties (map) to stock up on organic cotton tees which are a Goa must-have. Don’t forget to pick up some kaftans and jewellery at Label Zuka (map) before you call it a day. 

Next, make your way to the Center for Indo-Portuguese Arts (map), located in a 200-year-old house. Inside is Madra Goa, the world’s first house of Fado and Mandó, iconic musical genres of Portugal and Goa. Settle in for an intimate musical concert where celebrated fado singers take the stage, familiarising the audience with each instrument as they play ample creative variations. In the interval, plates of Indo-Portuguese snacks are sent around that adds to the immersive experience. You can find details for upcoming shows on their website. 

Dinner: For an epic last meal, let me recommend another underrated Panjim spot: Thai N Wok (map). Arguably the most wholesome and flavourful Thai dining experience in Goa, the restaurant follows a farm-to-table philosophy and grows their own herbs and vegetables. Everything on the menu comes highly recommended but if you find yourself getting overwhelmed, just ask for their recommendations. Don’t leave without trying their steamed fish in lime sauce, the som tam, and the morning glory greens.

Or head to Casanoni Trattoria (map) for an Italian dinner that would make every Italian grandmother proud. The restaurant flies their olive oil and cheese, including the Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano-Reggiano from Italy, and the seafood, meat, and veggies are locally sourced, making for an irresistible combination of fresh produce and precise technique. Order the Neapolitan pizza, pappardelle duck ragout, and panna cotta. 

For an ultimate Goan farewell, make a stop at MTW Bar (map), Panjim’s only office cocktail bar. Started by the team behind Greater Than and Hapusa Gin, the neon-lit space serves as the office for its employees and turns into a playful gin cocktail bar with drinks such as “Out of Office” and “EOD,” that are accompanied by some of the most delicious bar chaknas you can find in Panjim. As you sip on your drink, reminisce about your favourite moments from the trip and plot your return!