Breakfast by the Bosphorus

Editor’s note: Each month we offer you wonderful, trustworthy guides to places near and far—so you know the best places to stay, visit, eat and play. This month, Shirin Mehrotra offers an excellent guide to eating your way through Istanbul. It has neighbourhood culinary walks—and even includes a food glossary. Enjoy! 

Written by: Shirin Mehrotra is an independent writer and researcher. Her interests lie at the intersection of food, culture, and communities with a special focus on urban foodscapes and migration. Her work has appeared in Whetstone Magazine, The Juggernaut, Feminist Food Journal, and HT Brunch among others. You can follow her here. 

The city of Istanbul straddles history and modernity with ease. While there is a lot of sightseeing you can do, one way to explore Istanbul is through its food. You can walk into any restaurant or street side stall serving local fare and chances are that the food will be good. 

The key is to look for where the locals queue up. I followed this rule of thumb and ended up having great meals throughout. However, for the first-time traveller to Istanbul, here’s a nifty guide to eating out in the city.

A very helpful food glossary

Before we get to where to eat, let me tell you how to eat in Istanbul. The dining out options in the city are both exciting and overwhelming, which makes it important that you know what to expect. Istanbul has a variety of restaurants and eateries and each one offers a unique experience whether it comes to food or vibe.

The breakfast spots

Kahvalti Evi: Kahvalti literally translates to ‘before coffee’—kahve means coffee and alti means under or before—and evi means house. Kahvalti, the lavish breakfast spread, has a special place in the Turkish food culture. Think: variety of cheese, cream, honey, jam and marmalade, sweet and savoury spreads, olives, cucumber, tomato, breads, eggs and unlimited cups of cay (tea). A large spread is often priced between 800-1200 Turkish Lira for two people. Be ready to spend over an hour indulging in some Turkish TLC. If you have a small appetite, go for Kahvalti Tabagi, a smaller version of the spread.

Firin: These are the local bakeries that open as early as 5 am and start baking fresh simit (circular, bagel-like bread), Ramazan pidesi, bazlama (circular flatbread), lavas (balloon like bread), somun (Turkish loaf), and pide (flatbread). Some also bake puff pastries like borek that come with a filling of meat, cheese or spinach. Most of the firins are sold out by noon so be there early to grab the fresh bakes.

Simit trolleys: You’ll spot bright red trolleys selling breads across the city no matter where you are. Simit is one of the most popular Turkish breads that’s sold on the streets all through the day. The bread sellers pick up fresh simit (and other breads) from the bakeries at dawn and take rounds of the neighbourhood. Some bigger carts are also positioned in one place, often near tram, metro and bus stations or in touristy areas.

Cay Evi: Every Istanbul neighbourhood is dotted with cay evi or tea houses. Some of these serve only cay and Turkish coffee while others also have some food or nargile (hookah). Cay evis are perfect to sit and soak in the local vibe and get a feel of the city’s streets and markets. You’ll find these in markets on the street side, in old book shops and even inside religious places.

The big plates

Lokantasi: These restaurants typically cater to shopkeepers and tradesmen which means you will find a few lokantasis in every market. Open for only lunch, lokantasis serve a range of meat and vegetable stews along with rice or pilaf and bread. The stews are pre-made and kept in pots on a steamer at the counter. The diners can pick from what they want. Lokantasis also often serve corba or soups—meat, lentil, vegetable, tripe—in the morning that can be eaten with a slice of lime and bread.

Kebabs and grills

Kebapci: There are dedicated shops selling kebaps and the best ones to be had are in the markets. Lamb or beef mince and skewered kebaps are the most common ones, served on a bread with a side salad. Iskender kebap is one of the most popular where a thin slice of lamb doner kebap is placed on top of pita bread and served with a generous portion of sheep’s butter poured over it.

Ocakbasi: The grill houses are known for their entertainment value as much as for their food. There’s a live grill around which the guests sit and can see their food being cooked right in front of them. There’s also a flow of conversation between the chef and the guests.

From the sea

Balik: Istanbul is big on seafood and baliks are dedicated seafood restaurants. Most baliks have a small menu serving local fish like hamsi (anchovy) cinekop (bluefish), istavrit (jack mackerels) along with shrimp and squid. The fish is either grilled or fried and served with a side of lime, parsley and onion and a complimentary bread basket.

Midnight munching

Meyhane: The lifeline of Istanbul’s nightlife, the meyhanas are more than just drinking places. They are the cultural hubs and the older they are the better. They serve the local Turkish drink raki made with grapes and aniseed along with beer, wine and other alcohol. Mezze is the choice of food here and you get a variety of dishes from cheese and yogurt-based dips to fruits, salads, olives, and fish.

Where to eat in Istanbul

A list of some of the best restaurants/eateries in the city split by neighborhoods. Most of the tourist hotspots are covered here. Treat it like a definitive culinary treasure map—cay marks the spot! 

Sultanahmet and Fatih

The old city is a heritage and culture lover’s dream. While around you’ll spot centuries old cemeteries, community centres that are part of Medersesi (religious and educational institutions), cay khanas, and even museums — I chanced upon a Press Museum that houses old printing machines. The busy streets with trams running through them, minarets popping out against the orange hued evening sky, and streets blending into the sea are all a sight to behold. You’ll find these spots on a map at the end of every section. 

Unkapani Pilavcisi Sarkan Usta (map): This local cay shop (see below) is located at a short walk from Beyazit-Capalicarsi tram station. This is where the locals, mostly shopkeepers and vendors from the neighbourhood, stop by for breakfast and cay. It is a small kitchen with tables laid out on the street-side, serving eggs and bread for breakfast and pilaf during lunch.

Osmanli Muftagi (map): Located close to the cay shop, this lokantasi is run by old Turkish men who are friendly and welcoming. Try the lentil corba (see below), a variety of aubergine dishes especially one stuffed with lamb, pilaf and other stews that keep changing every day. The restaurant opens for breakfast until about 5-6 pm. 

Simsicak (map): This bakery adjacent to Osmanli Muftagi opens at 5 am and bakes some really good simit. It is a great place to grab some breakfast on-the-go if you’re staying around the area. Also try their pizza that’s topped with tomatoes and feta cheese.

Corlulu Alipasa Camii ve Medresesi (map): Located inside a 500-year-old community centre, this cay (see the stunning red colour of the tea below) and hookah shop will transport you to a different time period. The place is decked with old Turkish lamps; couches, and tables and chairs are placed in the open courtyard. It’s open till 2 am and is almost always buzzing with people.

Turk Ocagi (map): This is a small café inside a cemetery and a must-visit if you like a bit of peace in the middle of the crowded Sultanahmet area. I would suggest you sit here for some down time after a hectic day of visiting Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and Basilica Cistern (all in the same vicinity). They have a wide variety of snacks including an incredible cheese and potato gozleme. Try it with some cay.

Hafiz Mustafa (map): The most popular baklava and dessert shop in Istanbul. It’s a huge store where you’re greeted with loud Turkish cheer from the chefs making your baklava. They have a small menu that they serve at the café. You can sit down for dessert or get the sweets packed.

Filistine Kunefesi (map): Located in Yusufpasa, this place specializes in kunafa that is made with 100% cheese. You can also taste it before making a purchase.

Here is a handy map of all the above locations to help you navigate this delicious culinary walk.

Karakoy

Karakoy is the cool neighbourhood of Istanbul known for its designer shops, art galleries and cafes. One of the most fun things to do here is to stand on the Galata bridge on weekends and watch the locals fish. The atmosphere is that of a picnic where families lay out tables and chairs on the pavement, bring out their tea kettles or samovars and spend the day fishing in the Bosphorus. The view is spectacular after dark once the lights come on. It’s accessible by tram—Karakoy is the closest station for trams, the metro and buses.

Birecikli (map): Go here for some really good lahmacun—a crisp flatbread topped with spicy minced meat and walnut and order a bottle of ayran—fermented butter milk drink, to go with it.

Hadi Karakoy (map): This one’s a modern style meyhana and party spot for the locals. Go on Saturday nights to see the crowd singing along and dancing to Turkish and Arabic songs.

Here is a handy map of all the above locations to help you navigate this delicious culinary walk.

Kadikoy

Istanbul’s Asian side is just as much a foodie’s paradise as its more well-known European counterpart, and Kadikoy exemplifies that. Its main market is flooded with local fruits and vegetables as well as fish and spice mixes you need to stir up a Turkish meal at home. A ferry ride is the best way to get here—you can catch one from the jetty near Eminonu tram station. The view of the city and the Bosphorus with flocks of seagull flying above you is mesmerising so make sure you take some time to soak it in. While in Kadikoy food market, you can devise your own food walk.

Kadikoy Food Market (map): Once you get out of the ferry, walk across the road and get to Söğütlü Çeşme Caddesi. You will be hit by cries of vegetable, fruit and fish sellers. In the midst of this cacophony, you will find stores that sell the best of Turkish products and grocery items. 

Start with Ozcan Tursu (map), it’s a shop that sells pickled and fermented vegetables—turnip, pepper, beetroot, carrot, cabbage, okra. They also serve salgam here, a probiotic drink made with fermented vegetables. The bright red pickle juice is served with a mix of pickled vegetables dunked in it. 

Next, stop at any fruit seller and get some fresh figs; they’re juicy, pulpy and absolutely delicious. Head to Gozde Sarkuteri (map) next. It’s a shop selling charcuterie along with a variety of olives, sauces, spreads, oil, vinegar. 

They also have a mezze counter (pictured below) with at least 20-30 dishes. You can make yourself a mezze platter here and sit down to eat at the tables laid outside. They serve you bread to go with your mezze. You will also find a couple of shops in the market selling mussels that are stuffed with rice and spices. Order a few and have them with a squeeze of lime. 

On your way back pick-up some Turkish spice mixes—za’atar, Ottoman salad seasoning, sumac—herbal tea blends, marmalade and jams, sucuk, tahini helwa, sun-dried tomato, olives, dry fruits, nar eksisi (pomegranate molasses) and some fine quality olive oil.

Ciya Kebap and Ciya Sofrasi (map): Make sure you stop here for a full-fledged meal—both the restaurants are located across from each other—earlier in the day, to ensure everything on the menu is available. Established by Chef Musa Dagdeviren who featured in the Netflix series ‘Chef’s Table’, Ciya Sofrasi serves food from different regions of Turkey at Sofrasi while Ciya Kebap exclusively specialises in kebaps (see the mouthwatering pic below). At the latter, try skewer kebab—small veal chunks on a skewer with tail fat poured over it. At Sofrasi, try dolma—wine leaves stuffed with rice and spices and steamed, and the mezze that changes every day.

d'orient by Vitavien (map): You can end your Kadikoy food trip with an ice-cream here. The ice-cream parlour and patisserie is set inside what looks like an old tavern. The flavours are a few and simple, go for the pista and mulberry. The ice-cream is among the creamiest you’ll ever have and flavours are extracted from real pista and mulberry. There are no artificial flavours.

Here is a handy map of all the above locations to help you navigate this delicious culinary walk.

Rumelihisari

Located on the European banks of the Bosphorus, this neighbourhood gets its name from the Ottoman period fortress. Take a tram from Sultanahmet station to Kabatas station (the T1 tram line). Then take bus number 22 or 25E from Kabatas bus station to Rumeli Hisari bus station. The restaurant is less than a five minute walk away from the stop.

Kale Café and Pastane (map): Getting here is a bit of a commute if you’re staying in Fatih or Beyoglu, but the breakfast spread (see the image below) with the view of the Bosphorus is worth it. Even more so if you like to follow in the footsteps of Anthony Bourdain who ate here in the Istanbul episode of his TV show ‘No Reservations’. 

Priced at 800 Turkish Lira for two, the kahvalti includes a variety of breads including lavas, three kinds of cheese—white, yellow and halloumi, and fresh cream, honey, marmalade, sweet walnut spread, savoury tomato dip, olives, cucumber, tomatoes and unlimited cups of cay. You can turn it into a larger meal by ordering eggs on the side. Menemen—eggs cooked with tomatoes, is the go-to breakfast dish in Turkey.

Beyoglu

If Rumelihisari feels like a trek, head to the more accessible Beyoglu. Located on the European side, it is one of the important districts in Istanbul, and home to Taksim Square and Galata Tower. You can get here by tram, (Karakoy or Kabatas are the closest stations) metro and bus.

Dogaciyiz Gourmet (map): This one’s a larger kahvalti spread than Kale Café and the restaurant is known for making their own spreads and marmalade. The breakfast here includes scrambled eggs and avocado salad along with cheese, cream, marmalade, honey, cucumber and tomato salad, olives, babaghanoush, sucuk (sliced Turkish sausage) and a bread basket. The price for two is 965 Turkish Lira.

Sa Va Anatolian Breakfast House (map): Not too far from Dogaciyiz, Sa Va Anatolian is probably one of the busiest breakfast places around. Apart from the regular spread of cheese plate, jam, olives, salads, fresh cream, honey and breads, their kahvalti includes fresh mulberry juice, butter fried eggs, sucuk, Turkish fried dough, spiced walnut paste, molasses with tahini, Pumpkin dessert, fresh fruits, and salted yogurt. Price for two here is 1200 Turkish Lira.

Caglar (map): Istiklal Cadessi (cadessi means street) is a pedestrian street in Beyoglu, full of restaurants, cafes and meyhanas. This is where you can experience the nightlife of Istanbul. The narrow street is made narrower by the people occupying it —the bars and cafes here have outside seating. At night, if there’s a game on and Turkey is playing, there’s a louder cheer in the air. Caglar is one of the older meyhanas here. 

Once you’re seated the server will bring you a large mezze sample tray (see above) that allows you to pick what you want to order. The in-house musicians—as you can see below—will come to your table and play for you. Often the locals begin to sing and dance, making the place even livelier.

Here is a handy map of all the above locations to help you navigate this delicious culinary walk.

Also recommended

Zubeyir Ocakbasi (map): If Istiklal Cadessi feels too daunting and mezze with alcohol is not your thing, head to Zubeyir. It is one of the most popular ocakbasi in the area where you can sit around the grill and enjoy some Turkish culinary showmanship. The lamb chops here are highly recommended.

And while you eat your way through the historical backdrops of this gorgeous city, don’t forget to pet the cats!