Hello Hanoi: A pho-nominal guide
Editor’s note: Vietnam’s capital is a busy metropolis buzzing with energy, traffic and the cacophonous sounds of street food. This is where tradition meets the modern, where you can visit pagodas, puppet theatres and the grave of Ho Chi Minh in a day.
Written by: Keerat Kaur is a freelance copywriter and avid traveller based out of Pune.
Over to Keerat…
Hanoi can’t quite be defined. Like the ephemeral nature of a wisp of smoke, it constantly changes shape and form to welcome visitors. The narrow streets of the old quarter buzz with motorcyclists in a hurry—even as women on flower-laden cycles weave through the madness, making their daily deliveries. The cacophonous sounds of steaming hot plates of bun cha served on sidewalks mingle with upscale cafes in the elegant colonial quarter of the city.
Vietnam’s history is complex and has left scars on Hanoi’s urban landscape but the city holds on to pockets of tranquillity within its many temples. If you visit around Tet, the new year that usually falls within January, you’ll find the streets ablaze with yellow chrysanthemums and orange kumquats that bring luck and prosperity. Hanoi may take time to grow on you but you’ll find it hard to shake off the pho-nominal memories and mercurial pull of the city.
Where to stay
Budget-friendly options: Mayflower Hotel is located in the heart of Hanoi’s quaint old quarter, the Mayflower Hotel is a 2-minute walk from the trendy Dong Xuan Market and around a 10-minute walk from Thang Long Water Puppet Theater. It’s at the centre of all the action and offers comfortable rooms with hardwood furniture. (Rs 4500 per night)
Affa Boutique Hotel: The best part of this hotel is that the moment you step out, you find yourself in the centre of all the action. This 3-star hotel has comfortable rooms at affordable prices that make for an idyllic trip. (Rs 3700 per night)
Mid-Range Stays: It doesn’t get more central than the Oriental Jade Hotel which is located 300 metres from St. Joseph Cathedral and 700 metres from Trang Tien Plaza. Known for its excellent service and helpful staff, the hotel also offers a rooftop pool and bar with views over Hanoi’s charming old quarter. (Rs 11,000 per night)
La Sinfonía del Rey Hotel & Spa: A modern hotel located in the heart of Hanoi in the Hoan Kiem district, the La Sinfonía del Rey Hotel & Spa have spacious rooms, offers a variety of cuisines and diets to cater to all types of travellers and has a scenic rooftop bar with prime views over the tranquil Hoan Kiem lake. The hotel is also famed for its spa facilities. (Rs 10,000 per night)
Aira Boutique Hanoi Hotel and Spa: This Colonial-style hotel is located in the peaceful French Quarter and is a comfortable 15-minute walk from Hanoi’s most popular points of interest. Spacious rooms with balconies offering views of Hanoi’s iconic monuments make Aira Boutique a great place to park yourself in Hanoi. (Rs 10,000 per night)
Luxury Stays: Located in the heart of Hanoi in the trendy Hoan Kiem district, Capella Hanoi offers a luxurious stay in Hanoi. Sumptuously appointed rooms, excellent hospitality and proximity to Hanoi’s best sights and activities make Capella an excellent choice. All rooms come with balconies and the hotel prides itself on catering to an array of choices including vegetarian, vegan and halal options. The well-equipped fitness centre and lounge are perfect to unwind after a day of traipsing through Hanoi. (Rs 40,000 per night)
Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi: A heritage colonial property that marries French aesthetics with Vietnamese hospitality and is located in the picturesque French quarters of Hanoi. This 120-year-old hotel has hosted many a celebrity including Charlie Chaplin and Somerset Maugham. Experience a slice of Paris in Hanoi with a coffee at the Hotel’s ‘La Terrasse’ al fresco sidewalk style café or sip on a specially crafted cocktail or select from a world-class whisky collection at the ‘Angelina’ bar. A true Metropole experience is dining in the original ‘Le Beaulieu’ restaurant that specialises in French gastronomy. (Rs 30,000 per night)
Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake: Away from the hustle and bustle of Hanoi in the Tay Ho district, the Intercontinental sits on the tranquil waters of Westlake next to the 800-year-old Kim Lien (Golden Lotus) Pagoda. Fitted with wooden floors, the spacious rooms offer unparalleled views of the hotel's pool, Westlake or Hanoi City. Equipped with The 3 on-site restaurants that serve daily breakfast, Vietnamese cuisine and Italian dishes. (Rs 16,000 per night)
How to get around
Hanoi will remind you a lot of other capital cities of the world—a combination of the heritage of Rome, the architectural splendours of Paris, and the layers of history in New Delhi. The city has its heritage spaces, modern office buildings, narrow old quarters and with that comes the traffic. You’ll find yourself standing mesmerised at the sight of hundreds of scooters and motorcycles criss-crossing and zipping by in what seems like choreographed synchronicity. This is why crossing the road sometimes can feel like the most dangerous thing in the world.
But where there’s a will, there’s a way. If you find yourself in a hotel in the Old Quarter, you’ll find that you can walk and explore quite a bit on foot. Here are the other ways:
Taxi: Local taxis in Hanoi can be quite reliable and go by fixed metre charges. You can always flag one down the street or ask your hotel to call one for you.
Grab Taxi: One of the most convenient ways to travel in Hanoi at a reasonable rate is by Grab taxi which eliminates the problem of language communication. Just download the Grab app, put in your destination and find a taxi within minutes.
Cyclo (Xich Lo): The traditional three-wheeled bicycle taxi or Trishaw is synonymous with Vietnam and is a great way to take in the sights and sounds of Hanoi at a leisurely pace while giving your feet a well-deserved rest.
Motorcycle Taxis (Xe Om): Xe Om means Motorcycle hug and let me assure you, it’s the fastest and coolest way to explore Hanoi, perched as a co-passenger at the back of a motorcycle. It’s an excellent means of exploring the city especially if you are a solo traveller.
What to see in Hanoi…
The Old Quarter (map): This is where you can see some of Hanoi’s most iconic sites within walking distance of each other. Begin by exploring the various streets selling local handicrafts and souvenirs, picking up a chilled glass of coffee and making your way to St. Joseph’s Cathedral (map), a nineteenth-century Gothic revival-style Church with an imposing façade. The architectural style takes inspiration from the famous Notre Dame de Paris. The interiors are simple yet tranquil. It’s a great place to centre yourself before you submerge in the chaos of Hanoi.
Cross the road and make your way to Hoan Kiem Lake (map). Perched in the middle of the lake and connected by a picturesque ‘Light of Dawn’ bridge is the Ngoc Son temple (map). Built to pay homage to a military commander of the Tran dynasty, it offers a pocket of serenity within the hustle and bustle of Hanoi.
Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre (map): Immerse yourself in traditional Vietnamese folklore told through dramatic water puppets and live music at the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre.
Train Street (map): Imagine a train whooshing by inches away from your face as you nonchalantly sip your coffee. That’s possible in Hanoi’s famed train street—a narrow corridor of train tracks flanked by cafes on either side. Entry to the street is now allowed by accompanying a café owner, whom you’ll find standing at the guarded entry. If you promise to buy something from one of the cafes, you can enter and find a nice vantage point to perch yourself as you wait for the train to come by. Remember to look up train timings beforehand to experience what is the quintessential Hanoi experience.
Văn Miếu: The Temple of Literature (map) is a temple complex dedicated to Confucious that hosted the Imperial Academy, Vietnam’s first university from 1076 to 1779. The tranquil gardens lined with shady trees, the traditional architecture and the serenity in the temple make it a great place to spend a morning. If you visit during Tet (New Year Celebrations), you can find calligraphists who write wishes in a beautiful sloping style that you can take back with you.
Mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh (map): The final resting place of revolutionary leader Ho Chi Minh is in Hanoi. Located in the centre of Ba Dinh Square, the imposing structure is where the Declaration of Independence was read on September 2 1945, establishing Vietnam as a democratic country.
The mausoleum is inside the vast Ho Chi Minh complex that also houses a museum that serves as a comprehensive guide to Ho Chi Minh’s revolutionary struggles against foreign powers. Also worth seeing within the complex are the Presidential Palace, Ho Chi Minh’s stilt house and the unique One Pillar pagoda, built in 1049 in the middle of a square lotus lake.
What to eat & drink in Hanoi…
Vietnamese food prides itself on being one of the healthiest cuisines in the world. The emphasis is always on fresh vegetables, grilled meats, hearty broths and tangy dipping sauces. This is why you’ll be hard-pressed to find fast food chains in Hanoi because the local food is just so much better.
Bun Cha: This dish is synonymous with Hanoi. It’s what you’ll find most locals eating, perched on little plastic stools at the end of their work day. Bún chả consists of grilled fatty pork (chả) over a plate of white rice noodle vermicelli (bún) and herbs with a side dish of dipping sauce.
Where to eat Bun Cha: While you can find it in every corner of Hanoi, the most popular versions of the dish can be found at Bun Cha Tuyet 34 (map). Bun Cha Huong Lien (map) is a family-run restaurant that is also known as Bun Cha Obama because the ex-US President sat down to enjoy the traditional dish in this small restaurant with food connoisseur Anthony Bourdain.
Vietnamese Coffee: I am a confessed coffee aficionado and the coffee in Vietnam blew me away. Many people don’t know but Vietnam is one of the world’s leading coffee exporters. And the sheer variety of coffee in Vietnam ensures there is something for everyone. Vietnamese coffee is served with condensed milk. But in Hanoi, you can treat yourself to egg coffee, coconut coffee and even salt coffee. And let me assure you each tastes better than the last. The distinctive flavour that Vietnamese coffee has comes from its filtration from Phins—a traditional drip filter.
Cong Caphe is a famous coffee chain all over Vietnam with a distinctive Communism theme and some excellent coffee. They have several branches all over Hanoi but I recommend grabbing a cup and perching yourself over one of the windows that overlook St. Joseph’s Church in the old quarter.
Café Giang serves the famous Egg coffee. The story goes that the owner came up with the recipe while he worked at a 5-star hotel during the Indo-China war in 1946 when there was a severe milk shortage. To compensate for the lack of milk and to ensure that guests got their coffee frothy and delicious, he decided to whip the egg to get the same texture. Even today the café serves various versions of egg coffee and it has to be tried when in Hanoi.
Note Coffee (map) is insta-famous for its interiors covered in notes scribbled by its patrons. This colourful multi-storey café is a great place to people-watch and get breathtaking views of the buzzing Dong Kinh Nghia Thuc Square and Hoan Kiem Lake.
Vietnamese Pho: is a delicate soup with broth, rice noodles and meat with aromatic herbs. Steaming soup is the perfect way to end a day of exploration in Vietnam. The best places to eat Pho in Hanoi include the iconic Pho 10 (map) and Pho Gia Truyen Bat Dan (map), both located in the old quarter of Hanoi.
Bahn mi 25: The Bahn mi sandwich is the perfect example of Vietnamese culture. They took the crusty baguettes that the French brought with them and gave them their twist to create one of the tastiest sandwiches in the world. In Hanoi, you need to head to Bahn mi 25 (map) to try one of their specials while you rub shoulders with tourists who come from all over the world. Don’t forget to order their delicious coconut coffee on the side.
Hanoi Social Club (map): With a laid-back vibe and great cocktails, this club is housed within a 1920s French Colonial home and is a great place to mingle with young students and locals to get a taste of the Hanoi vibe.
Bangcong café (map): is perhaps Hanoi’s most Instagrammable café with flowers adorning the walls and a well-rounded menu of Vietnamese, western and vegetarian options.
Maison Marou: For those with a sweet tooth, Vietnam doesn’t disappoint. The country produces excellent chocolate. Find your way to this Parisian-style patisserie and chocolatier that sells gourmet chocolate bars and truffles that make for excellent souvenirs to take back as opposed to Duty-free chocolate. And while you’re there, sit down for a cup of coffee and select from a fine choice of pastries.
Pizza 4P’s: It is rather difficult to find the ubiquitous fast food joints in Hanoi, so if you are craving pizza as a change from the local food, I recommend dropping by this Japanese pizza chain, which has many locations in Hanoi.
Ưu Đàm Chay (map): is one of Hanoi’s best vegan restaurants. They feature vegetarian dishes from all over Vietnam combined with exceptional cocktails in a charming ambience.
Katze Vegan and Vegetarian (map): Don’t be fooled by the simple façade of this restaurant, the food inside is all top-notch. It’s a crowd favourite for a reason!
For nights in Hanoi…
Hanoi is a city that is abuzz during the day with motorcyclists and cyclos, but as the sun goes down the party lights come on and the clink of beer glasses becomes a popular refrain.
If being in the centre of all the action interests you, then one needs to head to the iconic Ta Hein or Beer Street (map) which is lined with scores of jam-packed bars, jostling tourists and lots of beer. This backpacker paradise is perfect for getting a feel of Hanoi’s buzzing nightlife. At Ta Hein, drop by 1900 Le Theatre Bar (map), one of the street’s most iconic addresses.
If you prefer your evenings slow and classy, head to Binh Minh’s Jazz Club (map) with cosy minimal décor and live performances by some of the finest jazz musicians in Hanoi.
Nê Cocktail Bar (map) is fast making its name as one of Hanoi’s best bars. The must-try is the award-winning Pho cocktail that has been inspired by the eponymous street food. The theatrical pour features three tiers of flames that lick the liquor and are infused with spiced gin that brings to life the various aromatics that give Pho its inimitable flavour profile.
A list for the shopaholic…
Hanoi is a great place to stock up on authentic handicrafts and souvenirs that will add charm to your home or make great gifts for friends.
Local souvenirs and quirky gifts: Vietnam has so much to offer in terms of handmade souvenirs. The best places to shop are the many shops that line the Old Quarter. Some excellent souvenirs that you can buy from Vietnam include rattan mats, ceramic pieces, traditional Vietnamese Non-la hats, Hill tribe clothing and local chilli sauces among other things.
The Old Quarter (map): Hang Bac for jewellery, Hang Giay for shoes, Hang Gai for silk, Hang Dao for clothes, Ly Quoc Su for local handicrafts and its many lanes offer several shops selling souvenirs, shoes, clothes and more. Compare prices between shops to find the best deals. If you find yourself in Hanoi over the weekend, drop by the Weekend Night Market (map)—a stretch of 3 km from Hang Dao Street to Dong Xuan Market, that sells everything from clothes to souvenirs in an environment buzzing with activity and life over the weekends.
Collective Memory along Nha Chung has a selection of quirky modern items like posters, stationery, pottery, and cushion covers which pay homage to Vietnam’s culture. You can pick up candles named after Vietnam’s cities each with a distinctive scent or a box of Hanoipoly—a Vietnamese take on Monopoly to take back with you. Across the road is Craft House Cathedral (map) which sells unusual and contemporary souvenirs.
Ceramics: I love collecting ceramics on my travels. I’ve come to love how each country has something so specific to offer when it comes to their local pottery and ceramics and Vietnam certainly does not disappoint. You’ll be sipping Pho and eating rolls out of traditional Bat Trang ceramics while in Vietnam and it’s a great keepsake to take back. If you have extra time on hand, make the trip to Bát Tràng village (map) just 1 hour away from Hanoi which offers the best ceramics in all of Vietnam. Located on the banks of two rivers Pho Hien and Thang Long, the area is rich in clay that moulds itself beautifully to create fine ceramics. While there, you can even partake in a pottery-making workshop.
And if you’re short on time, you can always pick up Bat Trang ceramics in Hanoi itself. Several shops in the Old Quarter sell beautiful Bat Trang ceramics like Bat Trang Authentic (map). If you are on the lookout for something more quirky and distinctive, drop by Cerender Ceramics (map) right next to St.Joseph’s Cathedral. They have ceramics of all shapes and sizes with unique designs. I particularly liked their cat-shaped chopstick rests that are easy to carry and make for great gifts to take back.
Local Textiles and Handicrafts: A great place to stock up on local handicrafts made by ethnic minorities is Craft Link (map) in Văn Miếu, beside the Temple of Literature From home décor to textiles to stationery, you’ll find a variety of pieces that reflect true Vietnamese handicraft.
I stumbled upon Craft Guild (map) on my last day in Hanoi. The shop is a veritable treasure trove of antique textiles, jewellery and clothing. The owner is very patient and knowledgeable and can help you pick something unique to take back with you. I recommend the colourful skirts and belts of the hill tribes.
If you’re looking for a statement piece to take back with you, I recommend dropping by Tiem Huu La La (map) which does excellent hand-embroidered clothing. The store is located very close to St. Joseph’s Cathedral on the fashionable Hang Trong.
Near Hanoi: A list of one-day trips
Halong Bay (map): The UNESCO World Heritage site is located about 170 km from Hanoi. Its name roughly translates to ‘descending dragon’ which will make a lot of sense once you visit because the half-submerged limestone karsts and islands do resemble the form of a slumbering monster, half under the water, ready to emerge breathing fire in a landscape that appears to be straight out of a fairytale.
Spread over an area of 1500 sq km, Halong Bay consists of 1900 small islands and limestone karsts that have been 500 million years in the making. The best way to explore the bay is by taking a cruise and stopping by some of the islands during the cruise. It’s a complete package with limestone caves decorated with stalactites and stalagmites, a hidden bay that you can kayak in, beautiful viewpoints and even a sandy beach for a bit of swimming.
There are many options to explore Halong Bay: For instance, 1-day cruises (Arcady Cruise, La Casta Cruise, JadeSails) that begin and end with Hanoi and cover the best of what Halong Bay has to offer or 2-3-day cruises (Ambassador Cruises, Aspira Cruises, Orchid Cruises) that require overnight stays that allow you to soak in the serene surroundings in a leisurely manner
If you have time to spare, I do recommend going on an overnight cruise because it will leave you refreshed and rejuvenated. Most hotels in Hanoi will help you book a cruise for Halong.
Ninh Binh (map): It is often referred to as ‘Halong Bay on land’ because it offers views of imposing limestone cliffs on either side of a serpentine river.
The best way to explore Ninh Binh is the traditional style with a paddleboat ride on the glistening rivers and then scaling the striking peaks for unparalleled views.
A typical trip to Ninh Binh should be overnight to enjoy all the region has to offer including a visit to the bustling village of Tan Coc, taking a paddleboat ride along the idyllic Trang landscape, climbing to the top of Hang Mua viewpoint for breathtaking views, visiting the Bich Dong And Bai Dinh pagodas and soaking in the serene environs. GetYourGuide offers a variety of trips to Ninh Binh that cater to different interests, number of days and comfort levels.
