Decadence in the desert: A guide to Doha
Editor’s note: While the rest of the world treads the beaten path to Dubai, Fawzia Khan introduces us to the lesser-known and no less luxurious delights of Doha. Warning: This is a luxe guide—best saved for a splurge.
Written by: Fawzia Khan is a writer, editor and photographer. Find her words in ELLE, Times of India, ScreenRant, The Wire—and photo work in GQ and ELLE. You can follow her on Instagram here.
Only 160 kilometres from north to south, and 90 kilometres across—this little Arabian nation is brimming with history, architecture, art, and technological marvels at every turn.
Until a couple of decades ago, Doha was merely a speck amid a sweeping desert. Today, it’s a vibrant metropolis that showcases the best of modern technology with a respect for the arts. Even more neighbouring cities like Lusail, Pearl Island, and the upcoming Giwan Island are fast becoming hubs of shopping and culture, in addition to Doha.
As someone who calls Doha, the capital city—her second home—I have spent enough time to know that Qatar is easily one of the hidden treasures of the region. It may not be the first destination that comes to mind when one thinks of a Middle Eastern getaway—but the tiny, football-loving nation is the perfect spot for a slow, serene escapade for burnt-out souls.
The Qatari adventure promises a sense of calm from the get-go—starting with a gorgeous landing into Hamad International Airport. Your plane seemingly skims over turquoise seas, getting treacherously close until a runway appears out of the blue (quite literally) and sweeps you into the rich embrace of Qatar.
First, some basic FAQ…
Language: While Arabic is widely spoken in Qatar, almost everybody speaks English or Hindi (thanks to the huge Indian population) so you will feel absolutely at home.
Currency: The local currency is the Qatari Riyal (QR). The country is both cash and card friendly, but it may be advisable to carry cash for local markets like Souq Waqif.
Getting Around: Locals tend to use private cars, but Qatar has a robust metro and tram system in place for tourists. Additionally, ridesharing apps like Uber and the homegrown Karwa are extremely prompt within Doha.
Some luxe options to stay…
Given how compact Doha is (the longest intra-city distance is probably 20 minutes), most five-star hotels within the city are not far from the best tourist attractions.
Mandarin Oriental: Situated in the swanky (and extremely walkable) Msheireb district that hosts designer cafes, public art galleries, and quaint tramways—the Mandarin Oriental pays homage to the history and nature of Qatar—through thoughtful design. It is also a hop, skip and jump away from Souq Waqif—the local market. (Prices start at QR 960 or Rs 22,000 per night)
Mondrian Doha: Inspired by Dutch artist Piet Mondrian’s artwork, this is a must-stay for creative souls. Expansive, colourful, and situated in West Bay—the glitziest of Doha neighbourhoods—with views of the ocean, Mondrian leaves you spoilt for choice when it comes to food, drink, and entertainment. (Prices start at QR 640 or Rs 14,000 per night)
AlRayyan Hotel Doha, Curio Collection by Hilton: While it may not make it to the “Best of” lists, I stayed here before I had a residence in Doha, and my experience was great. Attached to the Mall of Qatar, with sweeping views of the city, this five-star is the perfect stay for shopaholics. Sprinkled with a liberal amount of gold and modern art, AlRayyan is directly connected to the Metro line as well via the mall. (Prices start at QR 570 or Rs 13,000 per night)
Marsa Malaz Kempinski: Venture into Pearl Island by checking into this pastel pink confection that is reminiscent of a Venetian palazzo. Italian art and crystal chandeliers complement the spa by Clarins and various amazing restaurants offering the best of Middle Eastern fare. (Prices start at QR 880 or Rs 20,155 per night)
Hilton Salwa Beach Resort & Villas: For a resort experience away from the metropolitan bustle, this hotel offers Grecian luxury with unrestricted access to the Persian Gulf. (Prices start at QR 1045 or Rs 24,000 per night)
Art & culture: Inside Doha
One of the first public artworks you see is at the airport—Falcon by Tom Claassen (map)—a bronze reimagination of the falcon, which is the national bird of the nation.
National Museum of Qatar (map): Situated on the iconic Corniche promenade, the museum lies within a building shaped like a desert rose, designed by French architect Jean Nouvel. A marvel of a building, this museum houses interactive kiosks, larger-than-life displays, and immersive light and sound exhibits that take you on a journey from prehistory to the present-day of the nation.
This is the building from the outside:
And here’s what it looks in the inside:
The stunning sculpture ‘Motherland’ by Hassan bin Mohammed Al Thani is a large-scale recreation of the battoola—or the metallic facial covering which was traditionally worn by Qatari women. As the battoola becomes a rarity, the sculpture pays homage to this vital part of Qatar’s history.
Pouce by César (map): The iconic gilded thumb marking the entrance of Souq Waqif is, in fact, made entirely from bronze.
Maman by Louis Bourgeois (map): This giant spider nestled in the middle of Qatar’s National Convention Center has been fashioned from marble, bronze and stainless steel.
Us, Her, Him, by Najla El Zein (map): This is one of the most practical and usable pieces of art I have encountered—a gorgeous tangle of limestone pipes that serve as benches at Flags Plaza.
Museum of Islamic Art or MIA (map): Not far from the National Museum lies the MIA—seemingly floating in the middle of the sea. Priceless scripts about Islam, the Kiswa from the Kaaba—the cloth found on the stone building in the middle of Mecca, fascinating weapons from Islamic dynasties—and precious jewels will keep history buffs hooked for hours.
Qatar National Library (map): A metro ride to Doha’s decked-out Education City will lead you to a building with endless shelves of books—supported by a framework of the best library tech available. An in-house café and regular mini art exhibitions within the cavernous space make it hard to leave.
Art & culture: Outside Doha
Qatar may be a young nation, but its museums are state-of-the-art and cost a mere 100 QR. Look for everything from larger-than-life art installations to special exhibits by Hermes, Christian Dior, and other fashion houses.
Shadows travelling on the sea of the day by Olafur Eliasson (map): Start with this awe-inspiring, larger-than-life installation made of giant rings and mirrors in the middle of the desert. The artist Olafur Eliasson explores the role that our perception of the world plays in how we co-produce reality. (Entry fee: free)
Al Zubarah Fort (map): After the first halt at Shadows, drive to this fort which also lies in the Zubrah desert, not far from the installation. Qatar’s largest heritage site—it is home to ancient residential palaces apart from houses, markets, industrial areas and mosques. Explore this former military outpost, and head to the adjoining ancient seaside ruins which used to be a pearl fishing town and trading port for Qatar. If you’re not driving—there’s a shuttle service that helps you navigate between the fort and town (Entry fee: QR 25 or Rs 573)
East-West/West-East by Richard Serra (map): Trek to the northwestern desert to view this massive installation in the Brouq nature reserve. This is Richard Serra’s second public commission for Qatar. Comprising four steel monoliths over fourteen metres tall, these align perfectly from every angle. The German rolled steel material of the structure is expected to oxidise—changing from grey to rust—and eventually settle on a dark shade of amber. The sculptures are left open to interpretation by the artist.
Places to chill
Khor Al Udaid, or the Inland Sea (map): This is where the ocean meets the desert at this point—a perfect place to fish, barbecue your catch, and camp out for the night. If you’re lucky, you might just catch the pug marks of a big cat in the sand the next morning.
MIA Park (map): Sit by with a cappuccino and a Neapolitan pizza from a neighbourhood coffee shop, and enjoy the view of the shimmering skyline.
Katara Cultural Village: Sip a kadak in the Costa or Starbucks by the Corniche beach (map), or perch on the steps of the amphitheatre atop the hillside. (map).
On to the coast…
Qatar has some of the most picturesque coastlines in the Middle East with pristine waters–all about 100 kilometres away from Doha.
- Wade into the shallows of Al Gharia beach (map), where blue-shelled crabs and silver fish will flit by your toes.
- You can then head to Fuwairit beach (map) at the northern tip of the country for unparalleled tranquillity and a peek at ocean fauna. Do note: the beach is closed from April to July for hatching season of hawksbill sea turtles.
- Off-roading fans would enjoy the ride to Zekreet beach (map) which is ideal for windsurfing and kitesurfing.
A cautionary note: The beaches can get very windy during the winter months!
Inside Doha: For a beautiful oceanside experience within the city, Lusail Marina promenade (map) is the ideal spot for a jog, a walk, or a pensive sit-down by the sea. It helps that there are cafes, the tram, and the metro easily accessible from this waterfront.
A shopaholic's guide to Doha…
Souq Waqif (map): If you are chasing the old-world charm of Middle Eastern markets, walk from Msheireb to this iconic market to indulge in the best of Qatari handicrafts and food—and perhaps—have a falcon perch on your arm. Before the onslaught of synthetic pearls, pearling was the main source of wealth for Qatar. Buy loose pearls, or pretty earrings, necklaces, and bracelets to own some of the last vestiges of this lost craft.
Gold Souq (map): Arabic gold, often considered some of the purest in the world—can be found at this market dedicated to the metal—not far from Souq Waqif. As gold in Qatar is not taxed—it is a good place to buy gold chains, earrings, lockets, or bangles with uniquely Arabic designs. Gold bars and coins are also available.
Place Vendome (map): A haven for luxury shoppers, Qatar boasts the best of couture, often found inside stunning malls that dot the landscape of Doha and Lusail. This mall in Lusail—imported directly from Paris—has a gigantic wing dedicated to luxury brands. However, the dancing fountains in its Venetian courtyard—replete with canals and gondolas—are a sight more interesting to behold than the shops.
Galeries Lafayette (map): Situated inside Katara Cultural Village is this shopping centre of all things modern luxury—with designer houses like Aspinal of London, Lanvin, Berluti, Manu Atelier, Zimmermann, Vetements, Mugler, Sporty & Rich, Ganni, David Koma, Van Cleef And Arpels, Thom Browne, Acne Studios—and more all under one roof.
Villaggio Mall (map): Blue skies, European tenements and Venetian canals recreated indoors, give way to a literal palace that houses the biggest designer houses of the world.
Doha Festival City (map): This mall houses everything from Harvey Nichols to Ikea for the discerning shopper. Also home to the newly minted Qatari beauty store Gold Apple, DFC offers options from high street to luxury for all kinds of shoppers.
Lusail Boulevard (map): Littered with cafes, boutiques, and gourmet grocery stores—this commercial avenue makes for a pleasant walk in the winter months. Often hosting a food festival or exhibition of some kind, this shiny boulevard is a refreshing change from malls.
Time to eat!
Fine-dining options: Foodies rejoice as the country offers the best of world cuisine and local fare. Iconic restaurants like Carbone, Hakkasan and Nobu have their own Arabic outposts in Doha. Prior reservation will be required as these are hugely popular with the locals and expats too.
Carbone at Al Maha Island (map): The internationally acclaimed restaurant serves gorgeous Italian fare and delicious cocktails at their Doha outpost. Enjoy a sea view in their outdoor seating area.
Nobu at Four Seasons (map): Lovers of Japanese cuisine can head to this eatery that needs no introduction. Sushi and dessert is highly recommended!
Hakkasan at The St. Regis Doha (map): Those on the hunt for excellent Cantonese food can blindly trust this fine dining establishment for the best meal ever! Offering a rooftop and terrace venue for an intimate vibe—its lush and sleek interiors will elevate your solo meal or shared dining experience.
As for local fare: If fine dining feels a bit blah, Doha is littered with hidden gems.
Turkey Central (map): This Turkish restaurant serves a succulent plate of meat kababs with vegetables, which when paired with garlic toum and fried chillies is just divine.
Falafel Al Akawi (map): Vegetarians and fans of falafel should not miss this takeaway cafe that has a selection of soft and flavourful falafels along with other vegetarian Arabic dishes.
Abajour has a number of branches across Doha, but I dined at the cosy outpost in West Bay (map). The eatery has a variety of hummus platters and soft breads to tuck into, with a mid-range price point. The shawarma platters are also hearty and wholesome, with one being enough for two people.
Shay Al Shomous (map): While Souq Waqif has a huge number of eateries, I wouldn’t miss this tiny cafe owned and operated by a Qatari woman. The vibe is very much of a home cooked meal in simple surroundings, but the outpost has won plenty of awards for their food. Try the Regag, an Arabic Crepe with sweet or savoury fillings, and don’t miss out on the kadak tea.
Ankara (map): My personal favourite is a hole in the wall in Duhail. The chefs here serve the most delicious Manakish, topped with Zatar, cheese or meat, fresh out of the oven. Again, this is a takeaway cafe so it’s best to drive in and collect your orders. The Turkish shawarma was also one of the freshest—and largest—that I’ve ever had in my life.
Al Katem (map): For an easy beach meal at Al Gharia beach (map)—pick up a couple of packs of flavourful Mandi—a traditionally Yemeni dish of steamed rice and meat.
For not-local fare: COYA (map) and La Mar (map) offer delicious Peruvian fare. For that perfect Instagram snapshot: EL&N London (map), Flat White (map) and Blended Café (map). Definitely visit one of the many Doha outposts of cafe Angelina Paris (map) for some European fare and a great cuppa—one of the most popular branches is the one located at DFC (map).
For a bit on the run: The ubiquitous TeaTime is a casual cafe chain that can be found practically every 2 kilometres in the city. It is famous for rich, milky kadak tea and budget eats, with fresh parathas and burgers on an extensive menu. WhatsApp and Computer beverages, anyone?
At the cocktail hour…
For a drink, you have to head to a five-star as alcohol is not sold openly in Qatar. Bars like the Belgian Cafe at the Intercontinental Doha (map), STK Doha at The Ritz Carlton Doha (map), and Sora Rooftop at Park Hyatt Doha (map) combine breathtaking sunset views with bar eats and a relaxed atmosphere. Belgian Cafe (map) is by far my personal favourite—it boasts a European bar atmosphere that is laid back and friendly—but without compromising on the luxe feeling.
