Editor’s note: This week, we transport you to Lucknow—the city of nawabs, nazakat and nafasat immortalised in art, poetry and the silver screen. Neha Prasada’s 48-hour guide is a wondrous journey through the city’s many treasures—architectural, culinary and cultural. Prasada is also the author of the wonderful book ‘Dining With The Maharajas’—which we highly recommend if you want to eat like a queen:)
48 hours in Lucknow
Most people who travel to Lucknow are chasing an idea of cultural power symbolised by Awadh. In 1775, when Nawab Asaf ud Daulah moved the kingdom’s capital to Lucknow, artists flocked to the city to bask in the cultural renaissance that thrived both in the court, but also on its streets.
This was a city defined by its nafasat or refinement and its nazakat or delicacy of manners. Such was its sophistication that even the humble rickshaw puller or fruit vendor spoke in the most chaste Urdu in the city’s bazaars. The old joke is that even when two Lucknawis fought, they did it with such courtesy that the exchange sounded like poetry.
Along with refinement there was also an unapologetic indulgence in pleasure and beauty, be it in the competitive culinary skills of the city’s legendary chefs or the symmetrical arches and imposing minarets of its mosques and imambaras of its architecture.
Most of us first encountered the genteel refinement of Awadhi culture on screen, in Satyajit Ray’s ‘Shatranj ke Khilari’ and Muzaffar Ali’s ‘Umrao Jaan’. Today, when you stand before the imposing and intricately designed Rumi Darwaza, you realise how well fiction mirrored historical fact. The gate stands astride the old quarters of the city, or Chowk, where the old way of life is still visible amid the bustle of modern Lucknow—which has long been overtaken by the material power of modern-day commerce and politics. Giant parks, malls, business centres and multi storeyed buildings have crowded the city’s skyline. Here thrives a new, more opportunistic way of life at odds with the genteel pace of Lucknow of yore.
But even as the two worlds collide, this remains an old city with an old soul. Come gaze into its depths, if only for a few days:)
Where do I stay?
Here are some of the best options in the city:
Clarks Avadh: One of the oldest hotels in Lucknow, the hotel is a good place to stay in if you like being very central. Its rooftop restaurant Falaknuma is famous for its Awadhi cuisine and has live ghazal performances in the evening, which are a good way to get in a bit of culture. (Starts at Rs 10,000 per night)
Taj Mahal, Lucknow: Hands down the best looking hotel in the city, this Taj Vivanta property offers a comfortable stay. The poolside is lovely in the evenings and the coffee shop is bright and lively to get a quick bite. (Starts at Rs 9,500 per night)
Lebua Lucknow: This is a restored heritage property that was built in 1936 in the Art Deco style of architecture. It gives you a feeling of living in one of the old havelis of Lucknow. (Starts at Rs 7,000 per night)
Sarovar Portico: This is a good and slightly cheaper option if you want to stay in the centre of town close to most tourist destinations in terms of eating and sightseeing. (Starts at Rs 5,200 per night)
Day 1
Start your day early for a tour of Awadhi architecture in old Lucknow. Head to the Rumi Darwaza (map), built by Nawab Asaf ud Daulah in 1784.
Next, walk to the sprawling Bara Imambara (map) that has the distinction of having the world’s largest complex of buildings dedicated to the cult of Imam Hussain. Do not miss the Bhul Bhulaiya (map) which is part of the Imambara complex and as the name suggests is a labyrinth of passageways meant to confuse the uninitiated. Accredited guides are available on the spot.
Then head to the Chowk (map)—that corner of Lucknow that will instantly take you back in time, with the noise and colour of everyday life assailing your senses.
As goes with old quarters of all Indian cities, you will have to manoeuvre your way through chaotic traffic and the odd stray animal to explore the narrow bylanes of this old economic hub of the city that offers culinary delights, shops selling traditional itar, centres where the most exquisite chikankari, badla and zardozi is being done by hand, and antique shops selling the remnants of a lost age. You will also spot some old kothis and havelis that still have a faded charm despite their crumbling facades.
Lunch: A tour of the Chowk is also a culinary pilgrimage and these are the must-visit ‘shrines’.
- Raja ki Thandai (map) in Chowk is in high demand during the festival of holi in March but you can skip the seasonal crowds and get a taste whenever you visit.
- Idrees in Pata nala (map): This is where to go for biryani. Of course everyone has their favourites and trying to pin down the “best” is impossible, the city’s connoisseurs agree that Idrees makes a biryani bursting with flavour and fragrance.
- Mubeen’s in Akbari Gate (map): Famous for its pasanda kebabs which are beaten tender with a mallet and then cooked with a special spice mix.
- Raheem’s at Akbari Gate (map): Mop up a rich stew of marrow bones and mutton chops, with the softest of kulchas. The Nihari Kulcha especially makes for a decadent breakfast should you manage to make time for it.
- Visit the halwais in chowk (map) to enjoy the seasonal delicacy of malai makhan and hot kesar doodh in the winters.
Here is a handy map of all the above locations to help you navigate this delicious culinary walk.
Dinner: Go to Tundey Kebabs (map) in Aminabad for the famous galavat kebabs that everyone looks for in Lucknow. Legend has it that the galavat kebabs were made for a nawab with bad teeth and they were so tender that he would not have to chew them. Almost a 100 years later the great grandsons of the original chef Haji Murad Ali continue to dish out these mutton patties made with their secret family recipe. The kebabs taste best when you eat them at the shop fresh off the sizzling hot pan in Aminabad market. As you can see below, this is a no-frillls but mouth-watering experience. You won’t regret it.
Day 2
We’ve kept the second-half of your trip for sightseeing around Lucknow. You’ll drive in a loop around the city’s iconic streets, buildings and gardens—so booking a day’s cab will be a good idea.
Breakfast: Start your day with a hearty vegetarian breakfast of jalebi and khasta kachori at Netram’s (map) on Latouche Road.
You will need to walk off that excellent breakfast. So head out for Dilkushah Gardens (map) where the ruins of the beautiful Dilkushah kothi will remind you of a lost era.
History buffs will love The Residency (map), built as the home to the British Resident General—and which witnessed the historic Siege of Lucknow during the revolt of 1857.
Visit the last Nawab of Awadh, Wajid Ali Shah’s summer residence, Sikanderbagh (map) which now houses the National Botanical Research Institute of India. Part of this complex are the botanical gardens, just across the road and the ideal seasons to enjoy the profusion of plants here are winter and spring.
