Shillong unseen: An offbeat travel guide

 

Editor’s note: In this wonderful travel guide to Shillong, Meghalaya, journalist Takshi Mehta draws an intimate portrait of this charming city of contradictions. She recommends ditching the typical touristy spots and, instead, exploring the hidden nooks and crannies that lend the city its unique character. These are things you won’t find in any ‘Top 10’ list: from local football matches to secret rock ’n’ roll gigs, here’s how to do Shillong in style.

 

Written by: Takshi Mehta

 

*****

 

Here’s Takshi…

 

Shillong is a city built on comfortable contradictions. British-era cottages sit beside cafes selling matcha lattes. A butcher stall stands next to a vinyl store. Schoolchildren in plaid skirts weave through traffic while garage bands tune guitars for the night. The city holds all these worlds without explanation, which is why it’s every travel writer’s nightmare: you can’t see Shillong by ticking off landmarks. You have to wait it out—in cafés, in rain, in conversation. They still call it “Scotland of the East”, but the phrase feels borrowed—a leftover from guidebooks that needed an easy comparison. Shillong doesn’t resemble anything else; it resists being reduced to resemblance at all. Allow me to tell you how to experience Shillong best: 

 

 

First some basic travel deets…

 

Getting There

 

There are two main ways to get to Shillong, since the city doesn’t have direct flight connectivity. The first is to take a connecting flight to Shillong Airport (usually via Kolkata), though fares can be steep and seats hard to find. The second, and far more popular, option is to travel to Guwahati, the nearest major transport hub, either by flight or train (Shillong doesn’t have a railway station), and drive up. If you’re choosing the Guwahati route, here are your options:

 

Option 1: Shared or private cab from Guwahati

 

From Guwahati city (Paltan Bazaar area), Shillong is approximately 100 km away and takes about three hours by road.

 

Shared “Sumo cabs”. Tata Sumo SUVs that operate as fixed-route shared taxis leave every 30-45 minutes from early morning until evening. Each vehicle carries around seven to nine passengers, with a fixed fare of Rs 400-500 per seat. 

 

Private taxis are also available from Guwahati Airport or the city centre for Rs 2,500-3,500, depending on season and demand.

 

Option 2: Bus from Guwahati

 

Regular ASTC (Assam State Transport) and MTC (Meghalaya Transport) buses run between Guwahati ISBT and Shillong. The journey takes roughly four hours, costing between Rs 200-400 per ticket.

 

Regardless of how you travel, the route to Shillong is scenic, winding through pine-covered hills. A short stop at the stunning Umiam Lake (map) (see below), just before the city, is common. 

 

Tip: Leave Guwahati before 9 am if possible. After that, traffic thickens and fog often reduces visibility on the hill sections.

Getting around 

 

Shillong doesn’t have app-based cabs or a formal public transport network. Instead, it runs on a system of shared local taxis, which follow fixed routes across the city. You can flag them down anywhere, hop in mid-route, and pay ₹20–₹40 depending on distance. If you want to go off-route or travel solo, you can hire the same taxis privately by negotiating a fare in advance. But for most short distances, walking is your best bet. 

 

Local basics

 

English and Khasi are widely spoken, with Hindi understood easily. Dress in layers and good shoes—the weather shifts fast and the city is all slopes. Make sure to carry rain protection, because it's always drizzling. 

 

Best time to visit

 

Shillong is pleasant year-round, but October to April is ideal, with clear skies, cool air, and easy travel. The monsoon months (June-September) bring mist and waterfalls at their best, though expect heavy rain and slower roads.

 

 

Where to stay 

 

Choosing a place to stay in Shillong is really about choosing the version of the city you want to wake up to. Police Bazaar is the practical centre—busy, convenient, a little chaotic, but unbeatable if you want easy access to food and transport. Laitumkhrah offers a more lived-in slice of Shillong: cafes, college crowds, evening walks, and a softer pace. Upper Shillong is the escape—pine forests, cleaner air, and slower mornings, best suited for travellers who don’t mind being a short drive away from the city’s noise.

 

Luxury

 

Vivanta Meghalaya, Shillong (map)

 

Shillong has only one real luxury hotel, the Vivanta. Rooms start at around Rs 8,000 and can climb to Rs 20,000 during peak season, but what you’re paying for is comfort in the middle of the city—smooth service, reliable food, and the convenience of stepping straight into Police Bazaar without negotiating cabs or distances.

 

Ri Kynjai, Umiam Lake (map) (see below)

 

About half an hour before you reach Shillong, the road opens up to Ri Kynjai, a lakeside retreat that feels designed for people who want to relax and unwind in a place with stunning views, great AQI, and still within a reasonable distance from Shillong city. Rooms generally run between Rs 10,000 and Rs 16,000, and the experience is less hotel-like and more restorative. 

Mid-Range

 

The Heritage Club – Tripura Castle, Cleve Colony (map)

 

Once a royal residence, Tripura Castle is now a charming mid-range stay where rooms sit between Rs 6,000 and Rs 12,000. The appeal isn’t luxury—it's atmosphere. Wooden floors, old photographs, quiet verandahs, and a bar tucked inside the former stables make it ideal for travellers who like hotels with stories.

 

Polo Towers, Police Bazaar (map)

 

A dependable Shillong classic, Polo Towers offers clean, comfortable rooms usually priced between Rs 5,000 and Rs 9,000. It’s not the city’s most stylish stay, but it’s central, practical, and good for travellers who want everything—food, taxis, shops—within arm’s reach.

 

Budget & Homestays

 

Sha Ri Loum, Upper Shillong (map)

 

Located in Upper Shillong, Sha Ri Loum is a quiet homestay where rooms typically cost Rs 2,500 to Rs 4,500. It’s simple, warm, and perfect for people who want fresh air and slow mornings, though it’s a short drive into town for meals.

 

Laitumkhrah (map) Homestays

 

The best-value stays in the city are the family-run homestays around Laitumkhrah, usually Rs 1,200 to Rs 3,000 depending on the room. They’re clean, safe, and perfectly located for anyone who wants to explore cafes, bakeries, and student-life pockets on foot.

 

Police Bazaar (map) Lodges

 

If budget is the priority, Police Bazaar’s smaller lodges offer basic rooms in the Rs 1,000–2,000 range. They’re no-frills and often compact, but the location makes up for it—step outside and the entire city’s movement is right there.

 

 

Now for some sightseeing…

 

Laitumkhrah Evenings 

 

Skip the official “centre” and spend an evening in Laitumkhrah if you want to really experience Shillong. The neighbourhood hits its stride between 5-7 pm—students pouring out of colleges, momos steaming in steel woks, taxis weaving through the circle, cafés lighting up. Walk the stretch from Laitumkhrah Point (map) to Don Bosco Square (map). Stop for coffee at ML 05 (map) or Deja Brew, try local snacks from street stalls.

Timing tip: Go on a weekday evening; weekends get crowded.

Getting there: Take any shared taxi with “Laitumkhrah” on the windshield; Rs 20–30.

 

Mawphlang Sacred Grove (map) (see below)

 

About 25 km from Shillong, but essential. The Sacred Grove is a forest preserved for centuries through indigenous Khasi customs—no fallen leaf can be taken out; no offering kept inside can be removed. Go with a local guide (mandatory); the stories are the real attraction. It’s the quickest and most respectful way to understand Khasi cosmology, land ethics, and oral traditions. You can expect a 1-1.5 hour walk under ancient oaks and myrtles, through remnants of ritual sites. 

 

Tips:

Distance: 45 minutes from Shillong

Guide fee: Rs 300–400 per group

Best time: Morning to early afternoon

Avoid: Rainy days (trails get slippery)

Shillong’s football scene at Polo Ground (map) (see below)

 

While the rest of India breathes cricket, Shillong is all about football. Evening matches at Polo Ground, whether it’s a local league, a school tournament, or Shillong Lajong training, capture a part of the city you won’t see in any “top 10” list. The atmosphere is alive, local, and surprisingly emotional. Everyone has opinions, everyone commentates, and the passion runs deeper than the sport itself. Go between 3 pm–6 pm (check match schedules locally; your hotel staff will know).

Don Bosco Museum (map) Rooftop (see below)

 

The exhibitions inside are fine and touristy, but the rooftop is the real reward. From here, Shillong opens up—layered hills, tightly packed houses, and the slow descent of mist in the afternoons. It’s the cleanest, widest view of the city without leaving its limits.

Tips:

Entry: around Rs 150

Time needed: 20–30 minutes if you’re only going up

Best time: Late afternoon when the light is soft but before the fog rolls in.

Shillong’s Live Music Circuit

 

Shillong’s reputation as “India’s rock capital” didn’t appear out of nowhere. The city has had a functioning music ecosystem for decades—choir culture from the churches, Western classical training in schools, a strong blues and rock influence from the ’70s–’90s, and a steady supply of garage bands practising out of spare rooms. 

 

Where to go:

 

Cloud 9, Police Bazar (map) (see below): Most reliable for live blues/rock; No entry fee; drinks Rs 250–400.

Dylan’s Café (see below), Risa Colony (map): Intimate acoustic sets; early evening slots. Good for singer-songwriter acts.

 

Café/Bar Jams in Laitumkhrah: Unlisted casual sets; ask at ML 05 or You & I Arts Café (map) during the day.

 

Tip: Gigs are rarely advertised in advance, check with the venue directly the same afternoon.

 

 

Retail therapy, Shillong-style…

 

Iewduh (Bara Bazaar) (map)

 

The biggest and oldest traditional market in Meghalaya and the best place for locally sourced, everyday Khasi goods. There are several alleyways here so be careful, and just explore on foot, because cabs won't go here.

What to buy:

Smoked pork, beef, and fish (vacuum-packed available)

Wild honey, bay leaves, dried bamboo shoots

Handwoven Khasi shawls (basic, not boutique)

Tip: Carry cash; ask before clicking pictures.

 

Police Bazar Street Stalls

 

This is where you find budget clothing, winter wear, and Korean-style street fashion.

What to buy:

Oversized sweaters, jackets, and boots

Korean-style tops/bags

Affordable accessories

Tip: Bargain, but gently; fixed-price boards usually mean fixed.

 

​​Ryndia/Eri Silk Stores (various small boutiques)

 

Shillong is a centre for Eri silk, which is known for its matte texture and wool-like texture as well as the fact that it’s sustainable and cruelty-free. You’ll find high-quality, naturally dyed pieces that last years, so make sure to buy yourself something, because you won’t find Eri Silk in any other part of the country. 

 

What to buy:

Eri stoles, fabric lengths, and shawls

 

Tip: Real Eri is heavier and more textured; avoid anything shiny.

 

 

Time to dig in…

 

Jadoh (Non-Veg) – Trattoria (map), Police Bazaar

 

Jadoh is the Khasi staple—rice cooked in pork fat, seasoned lightly so the flavour of the meat leads. It’s smoky, savoury, and far milder than most mainland Indian pork dishes. Trattoria does the most honest, no-frills version in town.

 

Order: Pork Jadoh, Dohneiiong (pork in black sesame), Tungrymbai (fermented soybean).

 

Doh Khleh (Non-Veg) – Café Shillong (map), Laitumkhrah

 

A Khasi-style pork salad—boiled pork tossed with onions, cilantro, lime, and sesame. Clean, bright, surprisingly refreshing.

 

Order: Doh Khleh and Smoked Pork with Bamboo Shoot.

 

Street Momos (veg or non-veg) – Tibetan Market, Police Bazaar

 

Shillong’s momos are delicate: thin dough, fillings that stay moist, and seasoning that leans mild so the flavour of the meat or vegetables comes through cleanly. They’re steamed fresh in small batches, which is why they taste light, simple, and almost home-style rather than overly spiced or oily. You can find them anywhere but try the cluster of stalls behind Glory’s Plaza (map) inside Tibetan Market.

 

Pineapple & Lal Chana Chaat – Ward’s Lake Gate, Lower Police Bazaar

 

Roadside chaat that is perfectly tangy and refreshing. Made with local sweet pineapple and warm, spiced chana. Vendors around Ward’s Lake (map) tend to have the freshest produce so grab a bite if you’re around. 

 

Some cool cafes to visit 

 

Dylan’s Café – Risa Colony/Dhankheti

 

One of Shillong’s most dependable cafés with a lived-in, music-heavy vibe. 

Try the banana fritters, classic veg momos, orange pekoe tea, and perhaps a hot chocolate on a rainy day here.

 

ML 05 Café (see below) – Mawroh/en route to NEHU 

 

A biker-themed café on the outskirts, quieter than town and great for long hangs.

 

Try the pork ribs, blueberry cheesecake, and cappuccino here. Best visited during daytime for the views.

You & I Arts Café – Laitumkhrah-Umpling Road

 

This one is more of a community spot than a cafe with art, books, and open mic nights dominating the scene. Try the Pancakes, herbal teas, and veg thukpa here. 

 

 

A quick excursion away from the city

 

Alas, if your trip to Shillong isn’t enough on its own, here are a few quick day-trip options if you have a day to spare.

 

Cherrapunji (1.5-2 hours from Shillong)

 

Cherrapunji is where Meghalaya’s terrain shows its scale—cliff edges, wide valleys, limestone shelves, and waterfalls that feel stitched into the clouds. Begin at Nohkalikai Falls (map), where a short walk brings you to a ledge overlooking a deep green basin and a single vertical drop that changes colour with the light. 

Continue to Arwah Cave (map), an easy, atmospheric walk through limestone chambers where you’ll see shell and leaf fossils embedded in the walls. If you’re visiting in the monsoon or just after, make a quick stop at Seven Sisters Falls (map), which spills down a massive rock face in multiple threads. Between viewpoints, the drive itself becomes part of the experience—mist rolling in and out, sudden clearings, and small roadside stalls selling pineapple slices sprinkled with chili salt.

 

​​Laitlum Canyon (map) (40-45 min from Shillong) 

 

The easiest big-view landscape near Shillong. A clean, dramatic canyon drop with layered hills and shifting light. No overbuilt tourist infrastructure; just open space and wind. Great if you want a “wow” moment without a long drive. Either go early morning or late afternoon for the best views.

 

*****

 

Takshi Mehta is a lifestyle writer and journalist with an enduring love for cricket, cinema, and culture. You can follow her on Instagram: @takshimehta