Ramzan Mubarak: A delicious list for Iftar

Editor’s note: Ramzan season is a culinary highlight of the year for all Indians—irrespective of mazhab. We’ve curated a list of neighbourhoods that serve yum iftar across cities—including Delhi, Lucknow, Kolkata, Hyderabad and Bombay. If you want to add a city or hotspot, please email us so we can add it to the list—at talktous@splainer.in.

Contrary to the popular stereotype, there is no singular set of Iftar delicacies. The dishes vary from one region to another—be it Lucknow, Kolkata, Delhi or Hyderabad. And the menu encompasses far more than dum biriyanis and galawati kebabs (though we have plenty of those). As Vir Sanghvi sums it up:

There is no single Islamic cuisine. But there is an all-encompassing Muslim food tradition: one that finds joy and celebration in food; it is a tradition that travelled with the religion and took so many dishes around the world. 

So get ready to eat the world, so to speak:) 

Ye Dilli hai, mere yaar 

The seat of many a fallen empire, the national capital today offers a myriad of options across far-flung neighbourhoods. 

Matia Mahal and Chitli Qabar: These neighbourhoods around Jama Masjid have their roots in the seventeenth century as it was once part of Shahjahanabad.

• Al Jawahar (map): This is the most easily accessible, no-nonsense dhaba for all your tandoori barrah kabab and mutton gravy needs—order the mutton barrah and either a mutton korma (pictured below) or a mutton stew with khameeri roti. But if you go in the morning and have the stomach for it, you’ll get to sample a nihari brekkie. Cost: Rs 320 for half a plate of mutton barrah, Rs 230 for a mutton korma, stew or nihari.

• Haji Shabrati Nihari Waale (map): For a more reasonable nighttime nihari, few balance the tenderness of the meat with the green chilli kick as consistently as this hole-in-the-wall joint. The catch is that it’s nestled deep inside Chitli Qabar—if it’s too much of a trek, Rehmatullah (map) is a strong and convenient alternative. Cost: Rs 60 per plate, Rs 10 for a khameeri roti.

• Haji Mohd Husain (map): Fried chicken in purani Dilli?!? You better believe it, and it’s finger lickin’ fantastic too. Not too dry, not too greasy and just the right amount of spicy. FYI: It’s cash only. Cost: Rs 240 for half a plate

• Seekh kebabs are a dime a dozen around Jama Masjid—here’s a hatke roadside winner, courtesy our food blogger friend Spicy Dabeli. Kaale Baba ke Kabab (map) offers soft buff kebabs wrapped around threads instead of skewers. Cost: Rs 15 per piece. 
• Finally, for the best shami kebabs around these parts, there’s Bhaijaan (map). Cost: Rs 20 per piece. 

Beyond Jama Masjid: It’s not all just limited to one Mughal-era catchment area though—there’s a whole world out there. Here are our faves: 

• Matkapeer Mughlai Foods (map): Located adjacent to the sixteenth-century Sufi shrine (see below) from which it gets its name, this is as authentic a Delhi biryani as it gets—mildly spiced and perfectly cooked. Pair it with your preferred choice of qorma, stew or even a plate of galawati kebabs and you’re good to go! Cost: Rs 80 for a quarter chicken biryani, Rs 130 for a quarter mutton biryani.

• Lucknowi Galawati Kabab (map): A case in point of how Delhi serves as a rich culinary melting pot this time of year. Nestled in the streets of Zakir Nagar a stone’s throw away from the Jamia Milia Islamia university campus, this tiny joint perfectly lives up to its name. Order both the mutton and buff variants of the galawati kebab with some warqi paratha and roomali roti to find your favourite. Cost: Rs 300 for mutton, Rs 120 for buff

• Orhan Shawarma (map): If you're still hungry after the galawati meal, cross over to the adjacent Jamia Nagar for this roadside pit stop’s take on the Lebanese buff shawarma. Beware, it’s really spicy—so hold on to the free mayo! Cost: Rs 100

• For something a little milder on your palette, the chicken and mutton biryanis offered by Meerut ki Mashoor (map) and Asif Muradabadi (map) on the same street as Orhan are pretty solid. Cost: Rs 200

• And finally, since Jama Masjid can be a tad too touristy to venture around, Javed (map) in Zakir Nagar and Ballimaran (map) in Shaheen Bagh are reliable backups for your nihari needs—with generous dollops of desi ghee. Cost: Rs 150

Salaam Bombay

Mohammed Ali Road: Ramzan in Mumbai is incomplete without a trip to Mohammed Ali Road—located just north of the city’s main train station. Delicacies are brought out at iftar time in the eateries and on street stalls, and last until the wee hours of the morning. 

• Noor Mohammadi (map): Head here for the delicate Nalli Nihari, a speciality from the restaurant. Cost for a piece: Rs 200
• Nawab Seekh Corner (map): Give the Seekh Parathas a try here. Cost: Rs 200 onwards. 
• Jilani Fast Food Corner (map): This one is for the unique Mutton Naan Chaap, a meat sandwich made out of naan. Cost: Rs 200 onwards.
• Mashaallah (map): You’ll feel like a kid at a candy store, when looking at the colourful deep fried breaded snacks on display. Your filling choices are chicken, mutton and aloo but there’s no wrong answer, as they’re all delicious! One of each with a mutton samosa, and that’s your appetisers sorted! Cost: Rs 50 each

• Janata: You won’t find this place on maps but fortunately, it’s literally the dhaba next door to Mashaallah. Its snack offerings are largely similar, but a real delicacy here is the bater tandoori, or the tandoori quail. It’s made fresh to order so you’ll have to wait a bit, but it’s packed with more flavour per bite than a tandoori chicken thanks to the lower meat density. Cost: Rs 500

• Suleiman Usman Mithaiwala (map): For some crispy malpua and jalebi after the meal. Cost: Rs 150 onwards.

• Burhanpur Jalebi Centre (map): As the name suggests, this is a must-try pitstop for loaded but crispy jalebis. Cost: Rs 200 onwards.
• And while you are taking a stroll around Minara Masjid, savour some traditional phirni from any of the roadside stalls. 

Bhendi Bazaar: A stone’s throw away from Mohammad Ali Road, this little square is oft ignored in Bombay culinary discourse—we’re here to set the record straight:

• Haji Tikka Corner (map): Although it’s the obvious choice for your seekh kebab and chicken tikka fix, the real selling point here is the meat-stuffed Baida roti—crispy and flaky on the outside, juicy and tender on the inside. Cost: Rs 150 onwards.

• Taj Ice Cream (map): You can’t skip this legendary ice cream place on the street. Try the Sitaphal ice cream here. Cost: Rs 60 onwards
• Bohri mohalla Chana Batata waala (map): Arguably the most popular snack among the neighbourhood’s working population, this is a chaat combo of chickpeas and potatoes, repeatedly mashed. Hits way better than a vada paav, if we’re being honest! Cost: Rs 20

• Tawakkal Sweets (map): For kebabs and rolls, but also the flaky, creamy sweet, malai khaja with a khoya filling. Rs 100 onwards

Nawabi daawat in Lucknow 

Lucknow is famous for its Awadhi food, which is the food of the Nawabs. Its attributes: It is not spicy but is aromatic and flavourful. 

Tunday Kebab (map): Lucknow is known for its Tunday Kebab, it is almost sacrilegious if you don’t go there. If you’re not already familiar, these kebabs are made of mutton or beef and cooked with spices that make the most decadent kebab that literally melts in the mouth like butter. They are best paired with roomali roti. It is recommended that you take an auto from Hazratganj to this joint in Aminabad. Their plain Biriyani rice is also yum! Cost: Rs 200-400

For biriyani: Awadhi biriyani found anywhere in Lucknow will be lip-smackingly delicious. But local favourites are Idrees (map) and Dastarkhwan (map). Pro tip: You will have to plan ahead for Idrees as it is open for only a few hours—between 12pm to 3pm and 6pm to 8pm. There is no place to sit so all the orders are takeaways. Cost: Rs 200-400 in Idrees, Rs 1,000 in Dastarkhwan

More options:

• Mubeen’s (map): Also in Chowk, this dhaba is unmissable for its signature dish—the melt-in-your-mouth minced buff pasanda kabab that arguably surpasses the Tunday and the kakori on quality and consistency alone. Cost: Rs 90.
• Raheem Kulacha Nihari (map): This kulcha and mutton dish is very popular among locals and tourists. This restaurant is also great for a sehri. Cost: Rs 200 per person.
• Haji Abdul Shakur (map): The mithai shop is famous for its phirni (a type of kheer) and hanshi halwa (milk-based sweet). Cost: Rs 200 per person

Cravings in Calcutta

In the mood for Kolkata Biryani and other delicacies? Here are some restaurant recommendations from :

• Sufia Restaurant (map): If you’re a fan of the dish haleem—this is the place for you! FYI: The dish looks like gruel but is actually a superfood packed with protein and fats to give one energy after a long day of fasting. The restaurant is located in the famous Zakaria Street—the original hub of Mughlai cuisine in the city. So you can turn your visit into a full-blown food walk. Cost: Rs 200 per person
• Taskeen (map): Also located on Zakaria Street, they have fish fry and Changezi chicken. You can also appease your sweet tooth with their Falooda and Lassi. Cost: Rs 500 for two
• Arsalan (map) in Park Circus serves great Biriyani as well as amazing Chicken Malai Tikka and Kheer. Cost: Rs 200 - Rs 600 per person
• ZamZam (map): Once a lesser-known alternative to Arsalan, this popular spot is right next door—and now takes the crown for its no-frills beef biryani and decadent beef malai (see below). Calcutta cuisine at its delectable peak, yes please! Cost: Rs 160 for beef biryani, Rs 140 for beef malai

Nizami daawat from Hyderabad

Full disclosure: We’re not personally familiar with the city and sourced these recs from from Aarthi’s trusted foodie friends:

• Hotel Shadab (map): This is a legendary spot for Hyderabadi biriyani, located near Charminar in the Old City. Cost: Rs 600-800 per person
• Hotel Nayaab (map): The shop is famous for its haleem. It is open from 4 am to 12 am daily and is the best for sehri meals—which are meals consumed before fasting begins. Cost: Rs 850 for two
• Shah Ghouse (map): A chain of hotels that offers biriyani and haleem. Cost Rs 1,000 for two
• Pista House (map): In the mood for some biriyani and baked goodies? Cost: Rs 1,000 for two
• Cafe 555 (map): You get Irani haleem here. Cost Rs 500 - Rs 1,000
• Sarvi (map): Praised for serving ‘authentic’ biryani and haleem. Cost Rs 1,000 for two