Hunt for hygge: A cool guide to Copenhagen

Editor’s note: Over two trips to the Danish capital—in summer and winter—Joanna Lobo has gathered all the deets for a fabulous trip to Copenhagen. Cycle around town, hit the museums, and at 50 courses, sample the largest meal you’ve ever had!

Written by: Joanna Lobo is a freelance journalist, and editor from Goa. Follow her journey on Instagram, @thatdoggonelady and @GoawithJo 

Hygge is the unexplainable feeling, of warmth and contentment, of cosy fireside chats, and enjoying the simple pleasures of life. In Copenhagen, it is easy to find hygge.

The Danish capital, though expensive as the Nordics tend to be, possesses oodles of charm to delight the first-time traveller and the repeat visitor—such as myself. I’ve been to Copenhagen twice, in summer and in winter. While summers offer baths in the clean waters, green gardens, picturesque harbourfront, and the joys of discovering the city on foot, winters enchant you with hot saunas, warm wine-filled evenings and community gatherings, and my fave, Christmas lights!

Between both the visits, I found that there’s always something new to discover in Copenhagen—a market, a park, some quirky architecture, pastries with unpronounceable names, good cheese, a rooftop cinema, the changing of the guard’s ceremony, buildings that have new meaning, and libraries hidden in tiny corners. Here's how to make the best of your visit to the city.

First, some basic travel deets

How to get there: Air India has direct eight hour flights to Copenhagen from Delhi. Finnair has one stop flights between Delhi and Copenhagen.

Visas: You will need a Schengen visa to visit Copenhagen.

Currency: Danish Kroner or DKK. They also use Euros. Cards are accepted at almost every place.

How to get around: Walking is a good way to explore the neighbourhoods but public transport — bus, metro — is efficient. The Copenhagen card (available on the phone) is great for hassle-free travel. I recommend purchasing the card for first time visitors as it offers access to over 80 attractions including museums, and free public transport. (Price: Rs 6,000)

Cycling is also a great option, with dedicated cycling routes…more on this below.

Point to note: Copenhagen is a surprisingly big city, even if everything is a walk/cycle ride away. The city has 10 ‘neighbourhoods’ or districts in total. These are the ones you need to know:

• Indre by (map) is the touristic heart of the city—with the colourful harbour and home to museums and cool cocktail bars. 
• Flanking the city centre are the ‘bros’ — the multicultural Nørrebro (map) known for its nightlife and independent shopping; Vestebro (map), whose Meatpacking District (map) is a foodie hub; and the family-friendly Østerbro (map) known for its parks and waterfront sights.
• By the waterfront is the picturesque and colourful Christianshavn (map), and the architecturally-rich Nordhavn (map). 
• Frederiksberg (map), a city within a city with its own municipality.
• Upcoming areas include the former industrial district of Refshaleøen (map), which is now home to festivals and good street food.
• Carlsberg City District (map), home to Carlsberg and a hub of industrial history. 

Where to stay

For a first-time visitor, living in the city centre is ideal, as it offers access to the main points of interest. The ‘bros’ are good spaces too, featuring their own identity and a hub of new eating and cultural spaces. 

I stayed at 25Hours Hotel Indre By and Hotel Danmark; the rest are a result of my research to offer you a variety for your next trip. 

Some fancy options…

25Hours Hotel Indre By (map): A hostel-hotel hybrid, this quirky space in the city centre has a listening room with a jukebox, a bar, a restaurant (Neni), souvenir shop, and an outdoor sauna. The rooms are spacious and colourful. The former university building pays homage to its roots and the school/ learning theme is evident in the rooms — divided into passion and knowledge, a towering sculpture of books in the lobby (see below), an in-house library room, blackboard style art and even typewriters open to guests who want to send letters back home (they post it for free). (Price range: Rs 16,000-Rs 30,000) Nearest stop: Norreport metro.

Hotel Danmark (map): A laidback 4+ star hotel located in the heart of Copenhagen. In terms of location, it is prime: next to Tivoli Gardens, the main shopping street, city hall, and Christiansborg Palace. The boutique hotel has a lobby and bar that doubles up as a social space, 89 luxury rooms and a rooftop with a 360-degree view of Copenhagen. Nearest stop: Copenhagen Central Station, and Rådhuspladsen (metro). (Price range: Rs 17,000- Rs 28,000)

Hotel Kong Arthur (map): The hotel is located in a quiet corner of central Copenhagen, between the city center and Nørrebro. The century-old building has classic Danish furniture, 214 modern well-equipped rooms, a spa, fitness centre, and a bar. Closest stop: Nørreport Station. (Price range: Rs 14,000- Rs 45,000)

Absalon Hotel (map): Located in Vesterbro on the edge of the Meatpacking District and within walking distance from Tivoli Gardens, this family-run hotel with 116 rooms has a Green Key certificate and offers a unique Concept 24: room is yours for 24 hours from check-in to check-out. Nearest stop: Copenhagen Central Train Station and the Metro (Price range: 11,000-Rs 35,000)

I’m on a budget…

Wakeup Copenhagen: These are a series of three budget hotels — Borgergade in the centre, and Bernstorffsgade and Carsten Niebuhrs Gade close to Vesterbro. They come with minimalist rooms equipped with TV, desk, air conditioning and free Wi-Fi. Each has a restaurant, for breakfast and snacks. Nearest stop: Copenhagen’s Central Station for Borgergade; Dybbølsbro station for the other two. (Price range: Rs 4,700-Rs 7,000)

Copenhagen Downtown (map): A retro design hostel located in the historic part of the city centre, it has dorms and family rooms. On site are a late night bar and event space, games, bicycles on rent, and leisure activities. Nearest stop: City Hall Square. (Price range: Rs 4,000-Rs 10,000)

What to see 

Exploring the city centre: A visit to Copenhagen must start in the city centre, which abounds in museums, old architectural buildings and of course, the iconic Tivoli Gardens. 

Round Tower (map): An iconic building that towers over the city skyline, it was built in the 17-century by King Christian IV who sketched the golden rebus on its front. The building has Europe’s oldest observatory and library hall with changing exhibitions. To avoid the crowd, follow the wide spiral ramp—legend has it that a Russian Tsar rode up on his horse—leading to the observation tower affording a wonderful view of the city. Nearest stop: Norreport station. (Price: Rs 470)

Tivoli Gardens (map): The second oldest theme park in the world is one of the most visited places in the city. The Tivoli musical fountain has become an iconic image of the city and replicated across the world. It is even more magical and picturesque in real life. 

Tivoli offers 30 gaily decorated rides but is also an event space for music shows, puppetry, ballet and other performances. Definitely catch a performance at the pantomime theatre, an interesting place with very Asian architectural feels. It’s an ideal place to take the family, especially in winters when it is all decked up with lights and Christmas decorations. Nearest stop: Copenhagen Central Station (Price: Starts at Rs 2,000, free with Copenhagen Card)

Christiansborg Palace (map): The Palace once housed royals and today, it houses the Danish Parliament, the Supreme Court, and the Ministry of State. There are five visitor areas: The Royal Reception Rooms with the Knights' Hall and the Queen's Tapestries, the Royal Stables, the Royal Banqueting Kitchen, the ruins under Christiansborg Palace and Christiansborg Palace Church. It’s a big space that is deserving of time; some sections have free guided tours. (Price: Rs 2,500; free with Copenhagen Card)

Danish Architecture Centre (map): Located on the inner harbour in a stunning glass-front BLOX building overlooking the water, this is the place to geek out on all things architecture and design. There are exhibitions, activities, networking events, walks, and a DAC store.

Beyond the exhibits, the building is worth checking out too: bottle green stacked boxes (almost Lego-like) resembling shipping containers, built over and under a traffic thoroughfare. There’s a pedestrian passageway through the building too, and the rooftop cafe and terrace is a great spot for some quiet and to enjoy the harbourfront views. 

Definitely check out So Danish! The DAC’s first permanent exhibition on Danish architecture, going back to the Viking Age. DAC is a 10-minute walk from most of the city centre attractions. Nearest stop: the harbour bus stops at Royal Danish Library next door; sightseeing boat stops right outside. 

The museum check list: Copenhagen is home to some fantastic art and historic museums, many of which are in the city centre. 

• Designmuseum Danmark (map) displays arts and crafts from Asia and the West
• The National Museum (map) gives a peek into Danish history
• Glyptoteket (map) has art and sculptures and a gorgeous garden that comes alive in winter 
• Statens Museum for Kunst (map) has Danish and international art and is the largest art gallery in the country
• Copenhagen Contemporary (map) has contemporary art

All of these are free with the Copenhagen Card. The newest museum is Ikono (map), which has 12 immersive rooms that allow you to ‘skate’, play in a ball pit, or with silver balloons and even ‘time-travel’ (Price: Approx Rs 2,300).

Don’t forget to get your souvenirs: One of the best places to get unique and locally made products are the museum gift shops. DAC tops the list here but other worthy contenders are National Museum of Denmark for Viking-inspired jewellery among other things; books at Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek; and Scandinavian designs at Design Museum Danmark.

Beyond the city centre: A short ride/ drive away are some other fascinating attractions. 

Little Mermaid (map): The sculpture, inspired by Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tale, is one of Copenhagen’s most iconic tourist attractions, Made of bronze and granite, she sits in the water at Langelinie Pier, and was a gift from brewer Carl Jacobsen. The statue can divide people: locals mostly hate it, and don’t see its value. In fact, it has been vandalised many times. Interestingly, there’s a miniature version of the statue at the Home of Carlsberg. Nearest stop: Marmorkirke metro station and the Indiakaj bus stop. 

CopenHot (map): Imagine an urban garden with hot tubs, cold pools, wooden saunas and even a hot tub boat. Located in the Refshaleøen, CopenHot promises New Nordic Wellness in the form of the biohacking trend of hot saunas and cold plunges. Sessions are of two hours each, there are drinks to be bought on site, and you get stunning views of the island, including CopenHill. Note: CopenHill is at a 15-minute driving distance from here, so both places could be clubbed in a day. Nearest stop: Bus 2A is a 10-minute walk away. (Price: Rs 4,000 onwards)

Home of Carlsberg (map): It is one of the OG beers. If you’re a beer-lover then a visit to the Home of Carlsberg is a must. The former distillery-turned-exhibition space is a fun way of learning about the beer’s history, through interactive, multimedia exhibits across different floors. Here, you can brew your own beer, test your beer-making skills, and learn more about the dramatic life of the Jacobsen Family. Tours include a beer tasting in their cellar. The more expensive tasting gives you a chance to try some of the older aged beers and some limited edition ones too. Keep some time to check out the stables, and meet their draught horses and a pony. Nearest stop: Enghave Plads, the train station Carlsberg station. (Price: Rs 2,500, free with Copenhagen Card)

Nyhavn (map): The 17th century waterfront is easily the most recognisable and most photographed in the city, dotted with colourful houses, boats, and pavement cafés. Being the most popular spot here, it is heavy on the foot traffic and can get overwhelming too. It comes alive during the evenings (especially at Christmas time, which sees stalls selling food and mulled wine, among other things. Nearest stop: Kongens Nytorv. 

What to do? 

Think Copenhagen and cycling is the first that comes to mind. Being outdoors is preferred in a city that caters to every kind of activity, from skiing to cold plunging. 

Cycle across the city: Being one of the best European cities for cyclists (about 50% of locals commute to work this way), Copenhagen has dedicated cycling paths (around 300) and bridges—Lille Langebro (map), The Bicycle Snake (map) and Circle Bridge (map). It is best to avoid cycling during peak hours as routes can get very crowded. Cycles can be rented via apps or at hotels. (Price: Starts at approx Rs 1,500 per day)

Ski down CopenHill (map): Amager Bakke/CopenHill is an artificial ski slope and recreational hiking area that opened in October 2019, built on top of a waste management centre. It is a fascinating place that combines many activities under (and on top of) one roof. You can bring your own ski and snowboard or rent some on the site. There’s also a hiking trail that goes all the way along CopenHill’s roof, and the world’s highest climbing wall of 85 meters. (Price for skiing: Starts at Rs 1,700 per hour)

Go on a canal tour: A tour with Hey Captain offers a riverside glimpse of the city’s skyline and monuments (like The Mermaid Statue). In addition, these one-hour (or longer) tours also have some socialising built in with the tour guide leading the way with interaction and encouraging you to learn more about strangers (or even friends). In winter, the boats are covered and have heated seats. There’s always coffee/tea/ mulled wine on offer. (Price: Starts at Rs 3,000 per person per 1 hour)

Swim in harbour baths: A popular summer activity, many of the city’s harbours offer swimming opportunities with baths along the waterfront—free swimming pools, with different zones including a kids’ and paddling pool, and a diving area. There are changing rooms, and lifeguards on duty. Popular baths include Amager Strandpark (map), Fisketorvet (map), Sandkaj (map), and Islands Brygge (map). It is not uncommon to see some brave souls plunge into the waters in the cold months. 

Walk/ Picnic in a cemetery: Assistens Kirkegård (map) is Denmark’s best-known cemetery as the resting place of legends like Hans Christian Andersen (below) and Søren Kierkegaard. As cemeteries go, it is quite picturesque and quiet, making it an ideal spot to admire the gravestones, cycle through, or even have a picnic.

Play chess at Superkilen (map): The three-part urban park—The Red Square, The Black Market and The Green Park—was built by the Danish artist collective, Superflex. Each square offers something different: the Red Square has cafés, and music; the Green Park is ideal for picnics, while the Black Market has a fountain and a snaking black and white path ideal for photos. Lined up in one corner of the latter are chess tables where you can test your wit with friends or strangers.

Watch a movie: In the heart of Copenhagen, overlooking the Rosenborg Slot, is the Danish Film Institute (map). It’s a well-equipped home for Danish cinema, and gets more interesting as you go higher in the building. The rooftop doubles up as an open-air cinema, with seven exhibition pavilions. Filmtaget, as it is called, focusses on Danish cinema, with documentaries, clips and old films; there are kid’s sections too. Entry is free. In the off season, it is possible to visit the rooftop to take in the view of the surroundings.

Where to eat

Alchemist (map): Easily one of the most unique restaurants in the world, a meal here requires seven hours and a big appetite (50 courses). Chef Rasmus Munk uses multimedia, different modern and scientific cooking techniques, and shock and awe, to create a memorable dining experience. You will eat ‘plastic’, space bread, butterflies, bees, rabbit meat, and sip on some fabulous drinks, including a stellar non-alcoholic menu. Dietary restrictions are accommodated. (Price: Rs 64,000; tickets are released three months in advance)

Tiger Lily (map): A fun place on Paper Island, the restaurant serves modern Asian food that is vibrant and delicious, in a large open space. There’s an open kitchen, communal (some revolving tables) and a stellar wine menu. Dietary restrictions are accommodated. (Price: Starts at Rs 1,200 per dish)

Aamanns Genbo (map): One of the best places to eat smørrebrød, this cosy and colourfully decorated restaurant in Carlsberg Byen offers a good variety of meat/fish — the beef, and smoked herring are recommended, and vegetarian open sandwiches. Pair them with snaps(schnapps). Vegetarian/ Vegan menu available. (Price: Starts at Rs 1,200 per dish)

Absalon (map): An old church turned into a community dining space, Absalon is where strangers gather to dine at communal tables every night for an hour. The food is simple, homely, wholesome and changes daily; drinks can be bought separately. (Price: Rs 700- Rs 1,000)

Madglad (map): A small eatery in Vesterbro that serves communal meals every evening with daily specials, fresh salads and home-baked bread. Dishes vary but include familiar and comforting items like pulled pork, tortillas, beef stroganoff, frikadeller, moussaka and lasagna. (Price: Rs 1,000 per person)

Lola (map): Set in the former windmill of the old city ramparts, this Michelin Guide restaurant has a garden, and a terrace. The food is inspired by Asia and Latin America, and dinner includes five-course set menus. Definitely try the squid, with celeriac, and oyster mushrooms glazed with a salad of peanuts, ginger and spring onions. Dietary restrictions are accommodated. (Price: Starts at Rs 5,000 per person for a five course meal)

La Banchina (map): A modern Nordic café and restaurant housed in a former ferry waiting room for shipyard workers, the 16-seater space by the pier offers good, organic, healthy and locally sourced vegetarian food and seafood. The menu changes according to season. There’s also a sauna on-site. (Price: Rs 2,000 per person)

Reffen (map): It’s the largest street food space in the Nordics, and includes an ice rink, bars and food stalls serving a variety of dishes, from burgers and hot dogs to Latin American food and Nepalese fare. (Price: Approx Rs 1,000 for a dish)

Rørt (map): This smørrebrød place in Torvehallerne Market serves up tradition with a twist. The open sandwiches are hearty and delicious, and they have some stellar vegetarian/vegan dishes—think Danish Ingrid peas with baked pumpkin, or the mushrooms with vegan sunroot mayo, fermented garlic.(Price: Starts at Rs 500)

Gro Spiseri (map): The dining space at ØsterGro (the first rooftop farm in Denmark) serves organic produce sourced from local farmers, low impact fishermen, cattle, pig- and poultry farms. It’s a communal meal—breakfast, lunch and dinner—in their greenhouse. Dietary restrictions are accommodated. (Price: Rs 3,000 onwards)

Et Cetera (map): This cosy space does breakfast and lunch, featuring home cooked food; menu changes daily. The food is largely Asian, like Dan Dan noodles, congee, silken tofu, spring onion pancake and more. (Price: Approx Rs 1,000 per person)

Tivoli Food Market (map): If you are craving a buffet featuring delicacies from around the world, step into Tivoli Food Hall. The space has stalls selling meals—from classic Danish to Michelin starred fare—ideal for any time of the day. There are Indian small dishes at Dhaba, pizza at Gorm’s, Asian fare at Kung Fu Street Food, and Mexican at Zocalo. The setting is fun, and airy and the vibe is cheerful and welcoming. 

Gensyn (map): The place inhabits what was once a dive bar, but comes with a new look and elevated cocktails. They also do classics and as part of their Monday Night Book Club, bartenders will show off recipes from different cocktail books. (Price: Rs 1,000 per drink)

A couple of cool cafés 

Bastard Café: This is a fun café (there are three outlets) offering a variety of board games (over 3,000!). On offer are coffee, beer and some snacks. If you cannot choose, there are helpful gurus to guide you. (Price: Approx Rs 1,000 for three hours)

Minas Kaffebar (map): This cosy cafe has a fixed price concept with everything—coffee, sandwiches, even some wines—at 20 DKK (Rs 240). They sometimes have live music too. 

Where to shop

Clothes and accessories:

• Flying Tiger: Flying Tiger is the most popular Danish import, with shops across the world. It has cheap stuff for those seeking to buy souvenirs without breaking the bank. You get everything from affordable accessories, toys, makeup products to everyday items. There are outlets across Copenhagen.  
• Illums Bolighus: An iconic Copenhagen institution, this design store offers a curated selection of Scandinavian and international household items, clothes, and home décor.
• Magasin du Nord (map): The century-old department store covers five floors selling fashion, beauty, clothes, interior design and books. The basement has a gourmet food market Mad & Vin.
• Studio Arhoj (map): A small independent design and production studio, this is the place to go for handmade, one of a kind, ceramic creations.  

Fresh produce and cheese: Torvehallerne Market (map): This fascinating market has two halls, filled with stalls selling everything from baking products to gourmet cheeses. There are food stalls for every need, with vegan, vegetarian, seafood, pastries, open sandwiches, porridges and more. The space outside the halls is dedicated to fresh produce, and flowers.

In the mood for thrift: DanChurchSocial (Kirkens Korshær): This charity runs thrift shops (there are four in the city) selling furniture, home décor, clothing and antiques among other things. Reseller: This second-hand store sells second-hand and vintage items, and stuff from small, independent brands.