A good guide to Almaty aka the “other Switzerland”

 

Editor’s Note:  In this wonderful and detailed guide to Almaty, the cultural capital of Kazakhstan aka the ‘Switzerland of Central Asia,’ Joanna Lobo offers delights for the meat lover, the history buff, the nature enthusiast, and the avid shopper. It comes with a nifty food glossary and recommended places to check out outside Almaty. A happy reminder: Kazakhstan is among the few countries that are visa-free for Indians! 

 

Written by: Joanna Lobo is a freelance journalist, and editor from Goa. Follow her journey on Instagram, @thatdoggonelady and @GoawithJo 

 

Almaty certainly loves India. And, they aren't afraid to show it. Besides greeting and waving hellos, friendly Kazakhs can randomly break into Hindi songs. Mithun’s ‘Jimmy Jimmy Ajaa Ajaa’ is a particular favourite. They grew up watching Bollywood films, so Hindi words—vada vada, maloom hai, namaste—can also spring up in conversation. 

 

The Bible’s Garden of Eden could well have been in Almaty, home to lush green spaces and abundant apple trees. Almaty is also the land of milk and honey (and horse meat), seeing as it was a silk trading post and an important part of the Silk Road. The largest city in the country, it remained the capital till 1997. Today, it is the most cosmopolitan city in the country—the ‘Southern capital’ or its cultural capital.

 

It forms the ideal gateway for travellers into the country. A rich history and culture, food influenced by nomadic tribes and heavy on local produce, and a diverse and breathtaking landscape. There are parks on every corner, enough activities to keep children entertained, and diverse cuisines. Beyond the city, and a short drive away, are some of the country’s most unique natural landscapes.

 

Here’s how to make the most of this fascinating city.

 

Travel details

 

How to get there: Almaty is a short four-hour flight away, and the country is visa-free for Indians. In addition, it is a relatively cheap holiday destination. Bonus: It is very well suited for families, especially those with small children.

 

Air Astana has direct flights from Mumbai and New Delhi to Almaty. Indigo flies direct from Delhi. Flights are four hours. 

 

Visas: Visa-free for Indians, up to 14 days. 

 

Currency: Kazakhstan uses the Tenge, or KZT. It is best to carry USD and exchange it there, or use a FOREX card. (Rs 1 = 6 KZT; $1 = 520 KZT)

 

How to get around: Use the local taxi app, Yandex Go. There are buses too, but they require exact change. The metro is convenient too, and costs 150 KZT or Rs 25 per ride.

 

Languages: Locals speak Kazakh or Russian. Google Translate is useful, but not the best; you can use ChatGPT too.

 

Where to stay

 

I used the Booking.com options, but here are some other recommendations based on research. We were a group of four, so our bookings reflect it. Note: Some people use the site to scam tourists, and will do last-minute cancellations or request a booking off-site. Please be aware.

 

Almaty is divided into eight districts, each of which has its charm. While the city centre and downtown areas are close to some sights, it is worth venturing out to get a feel of local life. Everything is a short drive away, but expect traffic in the evenings. 

 

On Booking.com

 

3-room apartment on Abaya Seifullina: This tastefully done-up apartment is ideal for a group of four. It’s fully furnished, with ACs in both rooms, one bath, and one toilet. It was centrally located on Abay Avenue, close to Baikonur metro station. (Price: Rs 7,000 per night)

 

Nurly Tau 3-bedroom: Centrally located on Al Farabi Avenue, this is a spacious place with two bathrooms, great city views, and a fully equipped kitchen. (Price: Rs 12,000 per night)

 

Other places:

 

Alma Hotel (map): Located in downtown Almaty, on offer are 31 rooms, two saunas, a fitness centre and a restaurant/café. (Price: Rs 6,000 onwards)

 

Almaty Hotel (map): One of the most popular and historic hotels here, it is located in the centre near Almaly metro station. It has a restaurant and a sauna and is well-equipped for a comfortable stay. (Price: Rs 7,000 per night onwards)

 

Hotel Kazakhstan (map): The hotel is known for being the first skyscraper in the city to withstand an earthquake. It offers great views of the city and the mountains. It has four restaurants, including one offering karaoke. (Price: Rs 10,000 onwards)

 

Ramada by Wyndham (map): Centrally located, the four-star hotel has 164 rooms and suites with a spa and fitness centre and three dining spaces. (Price: Rs 10,000 onwards)

 

Novotel Almaty City Center (map): Located near the Kok Tobe cable car, this hotel has 190 rooms, a restaurant and bar, and a well-being centre. (Price: Rs 15,000 onwards)

 

What to eat?

 

Beshbarmak: Widely considered the ‘national dish’, this is a popular soupy stew made with meat (usually beef) and pasta sheets. It is often considered a meal by itself.

Plov: It’s a pilaf with character. Another one-pot dish, it comes with meat, rice, carrots, and fragrant spices. The carrots and small vegetables add flavour, and the meat is usually lamb or beef. Sometimes, plov contains boiled quail eggs too.

Tea: The country drinks a lot of fragrant herbal teas with fruit and spices. Tea is usually a part of every meal. Below is Sea buckthorn tea.

Kurt: This nomadic snack is essentially a dried cheese made with fermented milk. The longer it remains, the harder it gets, but the inside remains fresh and crumbly. Often made with camel milk, sometimes dried fruit or nuts are added to kurt for extra flavour.

Shubat: A popular drink, shubat is fermented camel milk. It is neither too fizzy nor acidic and makes for a refreshing, nutritious beverage. 

Kumis: Here, mare’s milk is fermented for much longer than shubat, giving it a pungent aroma and more tangy flavour.

 

Kazy: The tastiest way to try horse meat, kazy is a horse meat sausage. It is boiled and sliced before serving. The salting and spices are minimal, allowing the flavour of the meat to shine. It is usually served plain or atop dishes like plov.

Baursak: Small, round, bite-sized pieces of deep-fried dough. This is another traditional snack eaten throughout the day. They aren’t sweet but can be eaten with tea or with dishes like beshbarmak.

Manti: These oversized dumplings are filled with lightly spiced minced lamb or beef and onions, and then steamed.

Samsa: A street snack found in small kiosks, samsa is a pastry containing minced meat and onions. 

Tandyr Nan: This traditional flatbread is baked in tandoors (tandyr) and has fluffy edges and often intricate patterns. It is eaten plain as a snack or used to dip into curries.

Lagman: Kazakhstan has one of the largest communities of Uyghurs (an ethnic minority), and this traditional dish is now part of the cuisine. Lagman is made with long, hand-pulled noodles, meat, and vegetables; sometimes in a rich, hearty broth.

Kuurdak: A meat-heavy dish, this consists of roasted or deep-fried meat with garlic, onions, and chunky potatoes. Sometimes, offal (organ meat) is added to it too. 

Chak-Chak: Dough is rolled into thin strips, mixed with honey to form balls, and then fried to create this sweet treat. 

Irimshik: A sweet treat, it is made with curdled milk (like cottage cheese).

Zhent: A Kazakh dessert, this one is made with cottage cheese and millets and has the consistency and flavour of mawa (semolina).

 

Where to eat?

 

Almaty loves its chain restaurants. Almost every popular place has different outlets in the city, offering a variety of cuisines. Fast food chains, both imported and local, are a hit here. 

 

First, the food chains:

 

Coffee Boom: It’s a café that doubles up as an all-day diner. This coffee chain is popular for offering a delicious selection of teas, hearty global breakfasts and even drinks. (Price range: 900-4,000 KZT or Rs 150-233)

Qaganat: A chain of student-friendly cafés offering simple meals and coffee. Customers serve themselves and pay only for the dishes chosen. (Price range: 500-2,000 KZT or Rs 83-233)

 

Daredzhani: Another chain restaurant, it offers a taste of Georgian food, along with local dishes like plov. The vibe is cosy and comforting. (Price range: 2,000-7,000 KZT or rs 233-1,168)

Navat: Another popular chain, especially with tourists, Navat is a teahouse offering Central Asian food. Done up in ethno-Eastern touches, the vibe is more fine dining, and there are play areas for kids. (Price range: 1,500-9,000 KZT or Rs 250-1,500)

Harat’s Irish pub: The global pub chain’s five outposts in the city are the place to go for live music. It is a typical Irish pub with free-flowing beer, and attracts a largely expat crowd. (Price range: 1,200-9,000 KZT or Rs 150-1,500)

Degirmen: A chain of Turkish doner places offering good and cheap dishes. (Approx 2,000 KZT or Rs 233)

Restaurants and food markets:

 

Platforma foodmarket (map): Think of it as a food mall, offering different cuisines and foods under one roof: Georgian, Vietnamese, burgers, desserts, pasta and ice cream. On weekends, they host karaoke and games. (Approx 2,000 KZT or Rs 233 onwards for a dish)

Sandyq (map): The tourist-friendly chain offers a glimpse of authentic Qazaq cuisine and culture through traditional tableware, decorative items and music. (Approx 3,000 KZT or Rs 500 onwards for a dish)

Auyl (map): This experimental restaurant in the eco-hotel Qazaq Auyl, in the Medeu mountain district, is known for its modern twist on Kazakh food (what they call neo-nomad cuisine). The architecture is beautiful, the views are breathtaking, and the food, exciting.  

Kishlak (map): A restaurant offering a taste of Uzbek and Central Asian dishes in a traditional setting. (Price range: 2,400-7,000 KZT or Rs 400-1,200)

Inside Green Bazaar (map): Beshbarmak is a restaurant on the first floor that sits in the heart of the Green Bazaar and offers a taste of local food, from delicious plov to comforting beshbarmak. (Price range: (Approx. 1,500 KZT or Rs 250) Kurban Café Another small café in the Green Bazaar, this one offers Kazakh food—plov, beshbarmak, kurdak, tea—at cheaper rates than most other places. (Approx 900 KZT or Rs 150)

 

Things to see and do

 

Arasan Baths (map): An imposing ’70s-era bathhouse combines traditional Central Asian bathhouse features with high–Soviet Modernist design. They have a Finnish sauna, Russian banya, and Moroccan and Turkish hammam (steam rooms) and segregated spaces for men and women. There is a café and restaurant on-site.  

Tours: GuruWalk is the only company doing free walking tours of the city centre—the four-hour session includes important sites like the Monument of Independence in Republic Square, Panfilov Park, and Green Bazaar. Another popular option with travellers is Walking Almaty (paid tours).  

Kök Töbe (map): The highest point in the city is located at the peak of Kök Töbe mountain. It’s a good place to spend a few hours, especially with children. There are amusement park rides (approximately 2000 KZT or Rs 334 per person), a restaurant, souvenir shops, a VR experience, an upside-down house, good photographic viewpoints, and oddly, a Beatles bench. The highlight is a funicular ride up and down the mountain (4500 KZT or Rs 750). 

Green Bazaar (map): The most popular market in the city, with locals and tourists alike. The main floor is dedicated to groceries, dried fruits, and nuts with neatly demarcated areas for dairy, meat, and vegetables. There are electronic stores, a few restaurants and supermarkets. Downstairs are more grocery shops, and outside are souvenir shops and money exchange kiosks.

Karaoke bars: Karaoke bars are the rage in Almaty, and they are at almost every corner of the city. These bars (Rock Crystal [pictured below], Karaoke Record, Queen Club, Mildom are some popular ones) offer general spaces and private rooms for people interested in singing. Some double up as clubs, too.  

Metro stations: As is typical of Soviet metro stations, the 11 stations on Almaty’s metro line are themed. Each one has mosaics or artwork depicting a different part of history or the city’s culture: an apple tree mosaic at Almaly; Kazakh nomadic culture including walls resembling a yurt at Jibek Joly (translates to Silk Road); a bronze relief and stanzas from the poetry of Abay Qūnanbaiūly at Abay; and a video of rocket launches at Baikonur celebrating the Baikonur Metrodome. A ticket costs 120 KZT or Rs 20.

 

Parks and museums

 

Almaty is rich in museums offering insight into Kazakh culture, art and history.

Central State Museum (map): It has artefacts dedicated to showcasing the country’s history, rare books and manuscripts, coins, porcelain, ceramics and art (Entry fee: 500 KZT or Rs 83). 

Almaty Museum of Arts (map): has artwork by Kazakh artists and those who’ve spent significant time in the country. 

Ykhlas Museum of Folk Musical Instruments (map): is a stunning wooden building designed by the famous architect AP Zenkov—the halls contain wind and percussion instruments, musical instruments of famous Kazakh performers, and instruments from across the world (Entry fee: 1500 KZT or Rs 250). 

Museum and Apartment of DA Kunayev (map): showcases the life of the 1st Secretary of the Communist Party of the Kazakh SSR (Entry fee: 400 KZT or Rs 67).

101 Dump Gallery (map): It is an art gallery but also a bar with a little store where you can buy antique items. Located in the basement of a building, the space hosts events and art exhibitions, sells artwork and souvenirs, and offers a few drinks and snacks.

Panfilov Park (map): Almaty’s most popular green space is a beautiful park dedicated to 28 soldiers who fought and lost their lives during World War II. The park also has the Memorial of Glory (an Eternal Flame dedicated to them). The wooden Ascension Cathedral (below) is possibly the most beautiful and colourful in the city.

First President’s Park (map): Another expansive, well-kept park, this one is dedicated to Nursultan Nazarbayev. It has a fountain, a statue of the first president and many play areas and picnic spots. It offers a good backdrop of the mountains, too.

Zhibek Zholy walking street (map): Every evening, this street comes alive with buskers, karaoke sessions, dance contests and games (including arm wrestling). People sell art on the side, and others hand out free soft drinks. This stretch is lined with restaurants and a mall, too.

 

What to buy?

 

Dried fruits: Think of a fruit, and chances are Almaty will have the dried (read: dehydrated) version of it. Dehydrating them makes them lighter, intensely sweet, and they melt in your mouth. Look for apples, strawberries and figs. The dried mango resembles aam pappad.  

 

Nuts: It is common to see stacks of nuts and dried fruit in the markets. Vendors will mention that these come from Uzbekistan (‘good quality’) or China (cheaper). Walnuts, almonds, and even cashew nuts are good. Try the macadamia nuts, which appear sweetened and make for tasty snacks. 

 

Horse meat: It is easy to find everywhere. To carry back home, look for the kazy sausages or the roast meat. Vendors will vacuum seal them, if required.

Teas: Teas are abundant here and are fragrant, rich in fruits and herbs, and light on the stomach. They sell teas to treat different ailments, like a ‘sleep tea’ (with chamomile).

Carpets: The country has a rich carpet industry. A tradition of the nomadic people, carpets adorn their homes and yurts. There are factory-made carpets at Zelyony Bazaar, and some handmade ones at Barakholka Market (a local market outside the city). Or check our Aigul Line.

Felt products: Felting is a traditional handicraft here, and the fabric-like material is turned into myriad items. There are felted hats, slippers, and coats for practical usage, and the curios, toys, and showpieces like small yurts make for good souvenirs.

Chocolates: The most popular candy factory here is LOTTE Rakhat. The factory and chocolate shop sell chocolates, candies, fruit jellies, waffles, marshmallows, and even cocoa powder. They also have some low-sugar and sugar-free versions. 

 

Beyond Almaty

 

Almaty is a popular base for visits to nearby places. Many tour guides and agencies offer one-day visits or longer stays. Prices vary depending on the number of people and the vehicle. 

 

Shymbulak (map): It is a resort that is close to the city centre and known for being a popular destination in winter for skiing, snowboarding, and other snow adventures. In summer, there are hiking paths. On the way to the resort is the Medeu ice rink. Visitors can take a taxi or a cable car to get here.

Alma Arasan (map): Located in the Prohodnoe Gorge, this is a short hike beside a flowing stream that leads to the ‘hot springs’—tubs/ small pools filled with radon-rich healing waters. There used to be a sanatorium here which used the healing waters of the spring (it shut down in 1930). There are small snack kiosks and coffee at the entrance of the hike. There are buses and taxis to the entrance of the hike.  

Ayusai Gorge (map): The bears from the Goldilocks fairytale can be found standing tall at the entrance to Ayusai Gorge/ Waterfall. A short hike past the visitor centre, alongside a stream, leads to the first waterfall. Beyond that, at greater heights are two more waterfalls. The place is a good picnic spot.

Huns Ethno Village (map): The ethno village/resort is located in Novokamenny Gorge and is a recreational area offering a glimpse into the past. There are yurts, theatrical performances, folk dances, board games, baths, and more (Tours are approx. 22,000 KZT or Rs 3,669).

Charyn Canyon + Kolsai and Kaindy lakes: Most people do these places as part of either a one or two-day tour; the latter includes an overnight stay at Saty Village (tours range from $300 to $700 for a group). Charyn Canyon (below) is made up of picturesque vertical sedimentary cliffs that are 12 million years old. There’s a walking path that leads to the Charyn River (or an open bus, 800 KZT or Rs 133 one way). 

Kolsai Lake has a health path (stairs) that skirts the placid lake. 

To get to Kaindy involves an off-road buhanka (an off-road van) (Russian 4 WD; approx. 15000 KZT or Rs 2,502) ride for half an hour, followed by a short trek.