A Kangra guide: Get thee to a Tibetan nunnery

Editor’s note: Kangra in Himachal Pradesh is a well-trodden weekend getaway for hikers and Tibet enthusiasts. But most travel guides don’t offer a broad-ranging itinerary that captures its varied pleasures—from treks, pottery, Tibetan thalis, cricket and even indie cinema. Splainer team members and veteran Kangra visitors—Raghav Bikhchandani and Prachi Sibal—have done just that. There’s something delightful for everyone here. 

Written by: Raghav Bikhchandani and Prachi Sibal

Himachal Pradesh’s most populous district gets its name from the Lahuli term ‘kangri’, which means ‘snow atop a mountain’. Spanning a varied terrain from the foothills to the steep mountain passes, Kangra typifies this definition but it doesn’t tell the full story of what the district has to offer. An Indian hill station is usually known for one primary selling point—be it staycation, trekking, adventure sports, art or food. Thanks to its unique relationship with Tibetan refugees, moderate climate and Dharamsala’s position as the state’s winter capital, this district has it all. 

How to get there

IndiGo, SpiceJet and Alliance Air offer flights to Kangra Airport (map) from New Delhi, Chandigarh and Shimla. Prices start at Rs 2,400 from Shimla and Chandigarh and Rs 4,500 from Delhi.

It’s a 90-minute flight, but the service is incredibly unpredictable—due to weather impacting visibility on ground, and the small old aircraft used. Across Raghav’s three trips there, he faced just as many cancellations as successful flights. Prachi recalls spending upwards of five hours at the airport with flight delays on two trips. 

It’s far cheaper to take an overnight bus to Dharamsala’s main bus stand (map). Raghav recommends taking the Ram Dalal Holidays bus, which departs from Delhi’s Majnu ka Tila station (map) every night around 8.50 pm. Prices on the Redbus app start at Rs 1,000. 

All this, of course, is if you don’t have your own car. Be prepared for the steep (near vertical) climb to McLeod Ganj. 

How to get around

Drive, drive, drive—the Kangra district area is far too big (see the map above) to traverse on foot, and buses are the only available public transport—other than local cabs and autos. If single-ride haggling sounds too stressful, you can book a full-day cab for Rs 2,000 or more. 

Car rental services are available in-person along Jogiwara Road that connects Dharamsala to McLeod Ganj, but they are nearly as ridiculously overpriced as taxis. OTOH: bike rental services are a dime a dozen on Jogiwara and far more reasonably priced—Deepu Enfields is a particularly convenient spot. 

Point to note: If most of your internal travel is between Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj and you want a scenic 20-minute route, consider the Skyway. Run by the Tatas, it’s a cool cable car service that’s operational from 9.30am-6pm. A one-way ticket costs Rs 480 while a return will set you back Rs 700. Below is the view you can expect from the cable car on a good day.

Where to stay

If you’re a first-time visitor without a pre-planned agenda, your best bet is to stay in the McLeod Ganj town centre (map). It’s by far the most walkable part of the Kangra district, offering the easiest access to cabs and the main points of interest. 

Here are some options to consider—based on our past visits and familiarity with the region.

Convenient stays...

Serkong House (map): Located right at the main square in McLeod Ganj, this is a convenient option with a great valley view. The rooms are well-equipped and well-designed with Tibetan motifs and artifacts. The staff is friendly and will offer you all the help you need with sightseeing suggestions and transport booking. Prachi stayed here and enjoyed Tibetan breakfast in the backdrop of the rising mist. (Price range: Rs 2,300 to Rs 4,600)

Pema Thang (map): A guest house at a great location, within walking distance from McLeod Ganj square. The rooms are small and comfortable, not luxurious. The staff is friendly and there’s a small restaurant attached to the property that has a great valley view. (Price range: Rs 5,500 to Rs 6,500)

Pong View Hotel (map): This no-frills 3-star hotel provides easy access to the bus stand and the numerous Tibetan communities that dot the districts leading up to McLeod Ganj—while still maintaining plenty of peace and quiet. The so-called Kangra valley view they promote is a little overstated but the value for money is immense. (Price range: Rs 2,700 to Rs 10,000)

Hotel Shiva Sanctuary (map): This hotel is north of McLeod Ganj in Naddi, a town known for the Dal Lake and more importantly, the Tibetan Children’s Village which hosts the Dharamshala International Film Festival (DIFF). No prizes for guessing why Raghav stayed here—but even if you’re not a filmgoer and you’re just as unimpressed with the lake as he was, you’d be hard pressed to find a cheaper and better 4-star around these parts. (Price range: Rs 2,500 to Rs 5,700)

I wanna go fancy…

Chonor House (map): Run by the Norbulingka Institute and located close to the residence of the HH Dalai Lama, this is the place to be if you want a luxurious stay. It overlooks the Kangra Valley and every room is unique. The furniture and art are designed in the Tibetan style and the place is surrounded by beautiful Himalayan trees. (Price range: Rs 6,000 to Rs 10,000)

Dev Bhoomi Farms & Cottages (map): Perched atop a rocky riverbank near a village called Passu, this homestay is perfect if you want a quieter, relatively cut off staycation. You have a cottage to yourselves for privacy, while the owner is friendly and takes charge of communal activities over a nice pahadi dinner.

It also makes for a lovely mini-hike if you’ve planned a trip around a cricket match. Raghav did that walk both ways on his first visit. (Price range: Rs 10,000 to Rs 17,700)

Hyatt Regency (map): This one’s for the luxury lovers, hardcore hikers and Bhagsu Nag enthusiasts. Located near the waterfall as well as the mountainous base camps, it’s got all the bells and whistles you can expect from a hill station 5-star. (Price range: Rs 18,000 to Rs 24,000)

What to see…

The Tibet Museum (map): Situated within the exiled Tibetan government neighbourhood, this is easily the most hi-tech museum in the region—thanks to funding led by USAID (RIP). It’s a little hard to find at first, so follow the signs carefully.

But it’s worth the detour, as it’s a useful primer on the history of Tibetan people and culture—featuring displays of indigenous clothing, cuisine, photography and many personal anecdotes about the Chinese invasion of Tibet, and life as a refugee. A stand-out is the display of the uniform and weaponry of Tibetan guerillas. Entry fee: Rs 20. Hours: 9am to 5pm, closed on Mondays.

Kangra Fort (map): A stone’s throw away from the airport, this monument dates back until at least the tenth century when Mahmud of Ghazni invaded the Rajput Katoch kingdom that ruled here. Recorded history prior to that is fuzzy. Don’t be fooled by the tall claims on the tourism website. Today, however, there’s plenty of interesting architecture and stonework on site to marvel at—including ruins of a medieval-era temple. For more artifacts, check out the two museums near the fort premises. Price: Rs 20 for an e-ticket. Hours: 9am-5pm

Sobha Singh Art Gallery (map): Built and managed by his family as a tribute to the artist, at this gallery in Andretta, you can see Sobha Singh’s best-known work—‘Sohni Mahinwal’ and ‘Guru Nanak’. Also preserved and up for display is a recreation of the room Sobha Singh lived and worked in. You can also buy prints of the paintings at the small museum shop. Entry is free and the gallery is open from 9.30am to 5pm on all days. Nearest stop: Paprola, a 1.5-hour bus ride from McLeod Ganj followed by a 15-minute cab ride. 

St John’s in the Wilderness Church (map): A short hike from McLeod Ganj Square, and surrounded by a massive deodar forest, the church is like a structure preserved in time. Spend some time looking at the stained glass windows, and the church bell, which was destroyed in the 1900s by an earthquake and replaced a few years later. 

Bhagsu Nag Waterfall (map): The standout attraction around Dharamkot experiences high tourist footfall and pilgrims visiting the nearby temple of the same name. Fortunately, the large crowds do little to take away from the beauty of the 20-feet cascade on show.

Monasteries and nunneries… 

Sherabling Monastery (map): Located in the middle of a pine forest, surrounded by thousands of fluttering prayer flags, this is perhaps the most serene spot you’ll find in all of Kangra. Spend some time in the prayer hall and if you are there in the morning, eat a hearty breakfast of Tibetan bread, eggs, and potato curry with the resident monks at their canteen. The monastery turns festive during Lohsar (Tibetan New Year), and you can catch the Lama Dance performed by masked Buddhist monks. Nearest stop: Bir, a two-hour bus or cab ride from McLeod Ganj. 

Tashi Jong Khampagar Monastery (map): Established in the 1960s, the monastery was built to preserve Tibetan arts, culture, and crafts. It’s set in a picturesque location and is made up of wood carvings. Spend a moment of calm here before you head to the emporium to buy some Tibetan carpets. Nearest stop: Baijnath, a 1.5-hour bus ride from McLeod Ganj. You could also hop off at Paprola and take a cab. Buses are easily available at 30-minute intervals and cabs are outside all bus stops. 

Dongyu Gatsal Ling Nunnery (map): A female, Buddhist spiritual centre set up by Jetsunma Tenzin Palmo earlier known as Vicki Mackenzie, and wrote ‘Cave in the Snow’ about her days meditating in the Himalayas. You can take a tour of the nunnery and its lush gardens. If you are lucky, you may bump into Tenzin Palmo and she is usually up for a chat about her experiences. Nearest stop: Palampur, a one-hour bus or cab ride away from McLeod Ganj. 

Norbulingka Institute (map): If you need a primer for Tibetan arts and crafts and don’t simply want to buy ‘artifacts’, here’s where you need to go. From Buddhist Thangka paintings to textile and metal casting, you’ll get a peek into the workshops and see the techniques behind them. There’s a garden restaurant for some snacking and butter tea. It’s a beautiful place to spend a day and the best place to buy an authentic Thangka painting. Nearest spot: Dharamshala, it’s a short cab ride from McLeod Ganj. 

What to do?

Catch a cricket match: The crown jewel of Himachal Pradesh’s sporting infrastructure, the HPCA Stadium (map) regularly features on lists of the world’s most picturesque cricket grounds. This is mainly due to the Dhauladhar mountain range that overlooks the northern stands, serving as the perfect postcard backdrop.

While visitor tours cost just Rs 30 per head during the offseason, nothing quite replicates the matchday experience. Raghav had the privilege of seeing Australia and New Zealand play out a final-over thriller in the 2023 Men’s World Cup and revisited for an India-England test match in March 2024. 

Fortunately, you have the chance of doing the same later this year—the venue will host three IPL matches on May 4, 8 and 11. Prices can vary wildly between international tournaments, Test matches and the IPL but expect to pay upwards of Rs 1,500-2,000 for a good seat.  

You can get a sense of the daytime mid-match vibes below.

But it’s after sunset when the surroundings morph into something truly breathtaking!

Soak in some cinema: Far from a touristy gimmick for goras, the Dharamshala International Film Festival (DIFF) has emerged as a surprise sleeper hit for advance screenings—on par with bigger Indian fests. The fest is held annually at the Tibetan Children’s Village (map)—a residential community dedicated to educating the children of Tibetan refugees. 

The really cool bit is the organisers’ DIY approach in response to the limited infrastructure available. Since there’s no proper cinema halls around, the screenings take place inside the Village auditoriums and in large temporary tents set up on the village fairgrounds and sports fields. And yet, the experience is just as enriching as a Bombay fest at the Regal. Pro tip: Don’t eat at the venue—more on that in the ‘Where to eat’ section. Passes to the festival start at Rs 1,999, and also include a free tour of the Village. 

Time for a trek? Don’t worry, outdoorsy peeps, we didn’t forget about you—the district is surrounded by breathtaking mountains worth experiencing up close in the summer months. The tried-and-tested option for beginners is the Triund Trek (map)—Indiahikes has the best how-to guide for taking it on by yourself, it’s free! Of course, for the medium to difficult treks, there’s also plenty of companies offering their services for a pretty penny. The Kareri Lake Trek (map) is a good option to consider for a medium level—Trek The Himalayas will set you back Rs 5,500. As for the hardcore, there’s the four-day Indrahar Pass Trek (map)—prices at Himtrek start at Rs 5,000.  

Stroll around tea gardens: Tea is to Kangra what Guinness is to Dublin, so you’d be kicking yourself if you missed paying a visit to the Palampur Tea Gardens (map)—situated an hour southwest of Dharamshala. A guided tour with a tea tasting session could cost you anywhere from Rs 500 to Rs 3,500, but you can also just walk around by yourself and see how the sausage is made. Also keep an eye out for The Tea Room at Wah, one of the cute cafes that are easily accessible here if you just want to sample some tea without much walking.

A pottery getaway: Setup by Padma Shri awardee and master potter Gurcharan Singh in the 1980s, the Andretta Pottery studio and school (map) is run by his son, Mansimran Singh. Take a walk around the open-air studio in the hills, and be introduced to the manual potter’s wheel. There’s a small museum with pictures of some of their award-winning signature terracotta glazed pottery. Buy cups, trays and plates with intricate designs, and make sure you pack them well. Nearest stop: Paprola, an hour-long bus ride from McLeod Ganj gets you here. Hop on to a cab and Andretta is a 15-minute ride away. 

Where to eat?

Kailash Kunga Cafe (map): Located right at McLeod Ganj Square, it’s easy to find and most people will direct you here for the momos. They have a huge variety and great rooftop seating with views of the market area. Their palak and corn cheese momos are surprisingly good! It does get crowded during the tourist season. (Price: Rs 500 for a meal for two). 

Kyizom Himalayan Eatery (map): A ten-minute walk south of McLeod Ganj will take you to the one restaurant in town that offers the best balance between an inviting ambience and a top notch thali. Order the mutton Tibetan Thali—it comes with a trio of momos, a tingmo (steamed bun) and some lovely bok choy. Pair it with your preferred soft drink, then sit back and enjoy the owner’s love of playing Boney M and ABBA. Price: Rs 300 for a mutton Tibetan Thali.

Doljam Kitchen (map): This cosy joint tucked away in the lanes of McLeod Ganj offers a more rustic Tibetan thali than Kyizom, but surpasses it in quality. Wash it down with a bottle of Chinar ‘apple beer’ and some butter tea. The catch: they close at 8.30pm so plan accordingly. Price: Rs 350 for a mutton thali.

Tibet Quality Bakery (map): This is peak hidden gem, for which we must credit a food blogger who goes by Spicy Dabeli. The ‘bakery’ is really just a streetside counter, and the friendly ‘baker’ has perfected the art with the Yak Cheesecake—which combines chocolate with coconut. Incredibly simple, incredibly delicious. Sadly they’re perishable, so if you’re looking to pack something for the road after dessert, buy some giant Tibetan cookies. Price: Rs 90 for a yak cheesecake slice, Rs 40 for a Tibetan cookie.

Four Seasons Cafe (map): Another assist for Spicy Dabeli—this place stands out for its higher quality fusion options compared to the generic North Indian and Indo-Chinese fare offered across the district. Try the Chicken Soutsemen—pan-fried noodles topped with shredded chicken gravy. Price: Rs 210.

Cafe Dechen (map): This is the most convenient lunch spot near the Children’s Village and necessary if you don’t wish to get ripped off by the food vendors at the film festival. The home-style thali is hearty and satisfying, but the real star of the menu is the shabakleb—Tibet’s version of the samosa. Price: Rs 250 for a mutton thali, Rs 185 for mutton shabakleb.

Some more cool cafes…

Moonpeak Espresso (map): Go for a coffee and stay for the cakes at this cozy street-side cafe on Temple Road. They are known for their freshly baked cakes and a wholesome Himachali thali. Price: Rs 250 onwards.

Barako Cafe (map): Nestled deep inside a village called Gamru northwest of the bus stand, Barako can claim the title of the best hot chocolate and breakfast in town. Combine that with the ambience and the dogs that laze around vying for your attention, and you have a winner on your hands. Price: Rs 220 for a full plate of brekkie. 

The Other Space (map): Formerly known as Cafe illiterati, this is the district’s answer to Blue Tokai and Third Wave, minus the franchising boom and stale food. High-speed WiFi, cool art installations, immaculate views of the valley, good coffee, solid burgers, pastas and salads—it ticks all the boxes. Price: Rs 100-200 for coffee, Rs 300 onwards for food specials. 

D.town cafe & bakery (map): A good alternative to desserts and chai if Tibet Quality Bakery is closed—order the Tibetan pie and the brownies. Price: Rs 100-200.

Here’s a little bonus…

By far the most authentic meals to try are the many hole-in-the-wall Tibetan dhabas that line the streets of McLeod Ganj and the surrounding neighbourhoods. The challenge, however, is that most aren’t marked on Google Maps and their hours are unpredictable—yes, time to just explore the old-school way and hope for the best! Below is an example of a dhaba situated opposite the Four Seasons cafe. 

A huge selling point for these dhabas is that since they cater more to locals, you’ll find dishes that aren’t typically mentioned on the far flashier tourist traps. At this dhaba, Raghav loved the ‘shiwang powtse’—a generous serving of pork dumplings with a side of noodle soup—but good luck googling that! That’s why this is a bonus pick:)

What to shop?

Tibetan incense: From any Tibetan shops around McLeod Ganj Square or close to the HH Dalai Lama temple. Prachi loves the Potala brand. Remember to buy a closed incense holder, they don’t have stems that work with regular ones. (Price: Rs 50 onwards)

Papier mache: The outdoor market that leads to the HH Dalai Lama Temple has several Kashmiri papier mache sellers. Some of them will also offer to give you a demo of the craft. Buy some trinket boxes and pen holders. Remember to bargain on the price! (Price: Rs 100 onwards)

Green Shop (map): An outlet of the Tibetan paper factory, you’ll get colourful notebooks and notepads made of recycled paper with Tibetan motifs. You can also buy souvenirs for gifting here. (Price: Rs 150 onwards)

Tibetan artifacts and jewellery: At the outdoor market close to the HH Dalai Lama temple, you’ll find many small sellers with Tibetan artifacts and beaded jewellery. There are incense holders, Buddha statues, and replicas of the ornate Temple padlock that are a puzzle to unlock. Bargain hard, here! (Price: Rs 200 onwards)

Wonder Wyne: We hadn’t recommended any bars in this guide as they are mostly overcrowded and quite easy to find. But the real boozy selling point of this region is this local wine brand that outdoes far fancier and far more expensive out-of-state wines—due to its unique fruity options, promoting Himachal Pradesh’s orchard farming. The Rhodo, the Apple and the Pear wines are good examples to choose from. Most liquor stores in the district stock them, but the main square in Mcleod Ganj is probably your best bet. (Price: Rs 595 per bottle)