Beating a retreat: Five hill stations to discover

 

Editor’s note: Many hill stations have become noisy, polluted tourist traps—that offer little respite from the madness of city life. Sumita Chakraborty points you toward five destinations that offer sweeping vistas and serenity—and the promise of discovery.

 

Written by: Sumita Chakraborty is a Mumbai-based journalist with more than 20 years of experience—who writes on lifestyle, travel and entertainment. She was the former Editor of Stardust Magazine and is currently the Founder and Editor-in-chief of TheGlitz. You can follow her on Instagram @sumita11ster. 

 

Over to Sumita…

 

Hill stations have long been a refuge from scorching summers. But with each year, the best-known destinations have become more crowded and commercial. Here are some tranquil mountain retreats off the beaten track—spread across India.

 

Sethan, Himachal Pradesh

 

This is a village cocooned in the Kullu district in Himachal Pradesh—at a dizzying height of 2,700 metres above sea level. It has a sweeping view of the Dhauladhar range and surrounding valleys. Its residents are mostly members of the Gaddi tribe. The area is fairly tourist-free but a short drive from Manali—when you’re in the mood for some hustle and bustle.

Where to stay 

 

Homestays: Staying in a local homestay is one of the best ways to experience the culture and lifestyle of Sethan. Sethan Homestays offer cosy, traditional rooms with basic amenities and hearty home-cooked meals. (Ranges from Rs 1,000 to Rs 2,500 per night). 

 

Igloos: Sethan has an interesting stay option called Igloo Village where you can stay in cute fully furnished igloos. (Rs 5500 onwards) 

 

Budget options 

• The North Estate: This hotel offers a range of accommodation options from dormitories to private rooms. The property often organises trekking activities for its guests. Dormitories cost Rs 700 to Rs 1,200 per bed per night and private rooms cost Rs 2,000 to Rs 4,000 per night. 
• Nomadic Escapes: This eco-friendly retreat offers comfortable stay options in well-furnished tents and wooden cabins. (Rs 1,500 to Rs 3,000 per night). 
• The Gypsy Soul Hostel: Located a bit away from the main village, this option offers cosy cottages and tents, with facilities like a communal kitchen, bonfire area, and guided adventure activities. (Rs 1,500 to Rs 3,500 per night). 

Luxury: GlampEcoStays (map link), India’s first unique glamping dome stay is also there. It’s indeed a luxe experience. (Rs 11,423 onwards).

Eating out

 

Homestays: Most homestays in Sethan provide delicious, home-cooked meals as part of their accommodation package. Guests can enjoy traditional Himachali dishes made with locally sourced ingredients. The food here can cost Rs 150 onwards for a meal. 

 

Campsites: Campsites in Sethan often have their own kitchen facilities and provide meals for their guests. The food is usually simple, nutritious, and hearty, perfect for the high-altitude environment. (Rs 100 onwards for a full meal).

 

The North Estate: They offer a menu that includes Indian, Himachali, and some international dishes, catering to different tastes and preferences. (Rs 500 to Rs 1000).

 

Nomadic Escapes: Known for its eco-friendly ethos,this place provides wholesome meals with an emphasis on sustainability. The food is often vegetarian, made from organic ingredients, and reflects local culinary traditions. (Rs 350 onwards).

 

Dhabas: Although limited, there are a few local dhabas (roadside eateries) in and around Sethan where you can enjoy basic yet delicious North Indian and Himachali food. (Rs 250 onwards). 

 

What to shop

 

Sethan is home to the Gaddi tribe, known for their traditional woollen products. You can buy handmade shawls, caps, and other woollen items directly from the villagers. These items are not only beautiful but also carry a piece of the local culture. Shawls can range from Rs 500 to Rs 2,500 depending on the quality and intricacy of the design. I love souvenirs. Wherever I go, I pick up something small to keep cherished memories of the place later on. Small souvenirs like Buddhist prayer flags, prayer wheels, and other artefacts can often be found, reflecting the Buddhist influence in the area. 

Locations to explore

 

• Popular treks include the Hampta Pass Trek (map link), Bhrigu Lake Trek (map link), and Chandrakhani Pass Trek (map link). Or you can go snowboarding or mountain biking. 
• You can spend a night under the starry sky at a campsite.
• Paragliding experiences are available at Rs 2000 upwards. There are experienced instructors and tandem flights for both beginners and experienced paragliders,
• You can also go on photography and birdwatching expeditions—or check out a yoga retreat. I recommend the Open Lotus Yoga centre (map link) which is between Sethan and Manali. 

Tawang, Arunachal Pradesh

 

Far, far away from the hustle and bustle of city life, nestled in the serene landscapes of Arunachal Pradesh, Tawang enchants visitors with its breathtaking beauty and rich cultural heritage. Home to the iconic Tawang Monastery, one of the largest Buddhist monasteries in the world, this mountain town is a spiritual haven for pilgrims and travellers alike.

Where to stay

 

Homestays and guest houses: Dolma Cottage (Rs 800 to Rs 1,500 per night) and Dondrub Homestay (Rs 700 to Rs 1,400 per night). These are very homely and comfortable and the local staff are very friendly. 

 

Budget hotels: Dolma Khangsar Cottage (Rs 1,200 to Rs 2,000 per night) and Hotel Buddha (Rs 1,000 to Rs 1,800 per night) These are convenient, clean and comfortable stays. 

 

Mid-range hotels: Hotel Zax Star (Rs 2,000 to Rs 3,500 per night) and Hotel Tawang View (Rs 1,800 to Rs 3,000 per night). They offer good FnB options and comfortable rooms. 

 

Luxury stays: Tawang Inn (Rs 4,000 to Rs 6,000 per night) and Hotel Mon Paradise (Rs 3,500 - Rs 5,500 per night). It doesn't get better than these with their breakfasts, prompt room service, central locations and ample parking. 

Eating out

When dining out in Tawang, Arunachal Pradesh, you'll find a variety of culinary delights to tantalise your taste buds. 

 

Orange Restaurant: Known for its warm ambiance and diverse menu offering Indian, Tibetan, and Chinese cuisines. Enjoy dishes like Tingmo (steamed bread), Shabhaley (fried dumplings), and Thenthuk (hand-pulled noodle soup). Prices are pretty affordable.

 

Gakyi Restaurant: A popular spot for authentic Tibetan and Monpa dishes such as Thukpa, Momos, and Butter Tea. Food options like Momos, Chowmein, and Aloo Tikki are very cheap. (Rs 20 to Rs 100 per serving).

 

Woodland Restaurant: Offers a cosy atmosphere and a range of Indian and Tibetan delicacies, including Thenthuk and Tingmo. (Rs 350 to Rs 500)

 

Zomkhang: A charming café serving freshly brewed coffee, teas, and light snacks, perfect for a relaxing break. (Rs 200 onwards) 

 

Taktsang Restaurant: Offers a stunning view of the Tawang Monastery while serving delicious Tibetan and Indian cuisine. The food is simple but very nutritious. (Rs 200 onwards) 

 

Gompa Restaurant: A popular choice for traditional Monpa cuisine, with dishes like Gyapa Khazi and Zan being highlights. (Rs 100 to Rs 500)

 

Tawang Inn: This restaurant offers an upscale dining experience with a focus on local and international cuisine. (Rs 800 onwards)

 

Hotel Gakyi Khang Zhang: They have a restaurant that serves a variety of cuisines including Indian, Tibetan, and Chinese. (Rs 2,000 onwards for an entire meal for two)

Where to shop

 

Tawang Monastery Market: Located near the iconic Tawang Monastery (map link), this market offers a variety of traditional handicrafts, Buddhist artefacts, prayer flags, and souvenirs. Browse through shops selling Tibetan jewellery and accessories, including silver ornaments, turquoise beads, and colourful Buddhist amulets. (Rs 20 onwards)

 

Old Market: Also known as Gompa Market, is a bustling hub where you can find local handicrafts, handwoven textiles, traditional clothing like shawls and jackets, as well as Tibetan jewellery and accessories. Tawang is known for its exquisite handicrafts, including handwoven textiles, intricately carved wooden artefacts, and traditional Monpa handicrafts such as bamboo products and hand-knitted woollens. Traditional clothing items like shawls, jackets, and scarves may range from Rs 500 to Rs 2,000. Small items like keychains or prayer flags may cost as little as Rs 20 to Rs 100, while larger handicrafts or textiles can range from Rs 500 to Rs 5,000 or more. 

 

Nehru Market (map link): Other than that, situated in the heart of Tawang town, this market is known for its shops selling a range of goods, including clothing, electronics, household items, and local snacks. Tawang is home to several tea estates that produce high-quality organic tea. You can shop for a variety of locally grown tea here, including black, green, and white tea, as well as flavoured tea blends. Organic honey, kiwi fruit, dried fish, and traditional snacks like Chura Sabzi and Apong (rice beer) are also available there. (Rs 50 onwards) 

 

Losel Doll Museum and Craft Center (map link): This is a local craft centre and cooperative where you can purchase intricately crafted items such as hand-carved wooden artefacts, thangka paintings, and handmade dolls. (Rs 500 onwards)

Locations to Explore

• If you enjoy trekking, the rugged terrain of Tawang offers trails leading to the sparkling Sela Lake (map link) and the pristine Pankang Teng Tso Lake (map link). You can also explore the stunning landscapes surrounding Tawang through trails like the Bum La Pass Trek (map link), Gorichen Base Camp Trek (map link), and Tawang-Chu Valley Trek that offer breathtaking views of the Himalayas and pristine alpine scenery.
• Since Tawang is the land of monasteries, take a spiritual tour of monasteries, especially the iconic Tawang Monastery, also known as Galden Namgyal Lhatse. Visit attractions like the Sela Pass, Madhuri Lake (map link) (Sungetser Lake), P T Tso Lake (map link), and Nuranang Waterfall (map link) for awe-inspiring views and memorable experiences.
• For some adrenalin-thumping activities, experience the thrill of white-water rafting on the turbulent waters of the Kameng River. I suggest Arunachal Adventure (map link) or Explore Himalayas—they customise the white river rafting experience. (Rs 1500 onwards)
• For some ‘wild’ moments, go on a wildlife safari to the nearby Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary (map link) or Sessa Orchid Sanctuary (map link) to spot exotic Himalayan wildlife such as the red panda, clouded leopard, and various species of birds and butterflies.
• You can also rent a motorbike and go on a thrilling motorbike adventure through the winding mountain roads of Tawang to scenic routes like Tawang-Bomdila Road (map link) or the Bum La Pass.

Ziro, Arunachal Pradesh

Ziro, located in the Lower Subansiri district of Arunachal Pradesh, India, offers a rich tapestry of culinary experiences, adventurous activities, and shopping opportunities amidst its stunning landscapes. It’s also famous for its annual Ziro Music Festival—artists from all over the world attend this festival held in September. 

Where to stay

 

Homestays and camping: 

• Ngunu Ziro Homestay (Rs 1,000 to Rs 2,000 per night) and Dolo Mando Homestay (map link) (Rs 800 to Rs 1,800 per night). Friendly hosts, home-cooked meals, clean and comfortable rooms, and a chance to interact with the local community make these two homestays very popular.  
• For camping, try Encamp Ziro Valley (Rs 1,500 to Rs2,500 per night) and Camp Abode (Rs 1,200 to Rs 2,000 per night). Features include eco-friendly accommodation, beautiful natural setting, and a peaceful environment.

Budget Hotels: While there are many budget hotels, Hotel Pine Ridge (map link) (Rs 1,200 to Rs 2,500 per night) and Hotel Zimin (map link) (Rs 1,000 to Rs 2,200 per night) are recommended by seasoned travellers. Hotel Pine Ridge offers adequate facilities, room service and a fireplace to keep you warm in the cold—while Hotel Zimin—a three star property offers a Continental breakfast and mountain views.

 

Luxury Hotels and Resorts: Ziro Palace Inn (map link) (Rs 4,500 to Rs 6,500 per night) and Kasa Resort (map link) (Rs 4,000 to 6,000 per night) are very popular. Siiro Resort (map link) (Rs 2,500  to Rs 4,000 per night) and Hotel Blue Pine (map link) (Rs 2,000 to Rs 3,500 per night) are good. Many of these are quaint hotels offering rooms with sloping roofs and valley views. 

Eating out

 

Hapoli Market: Explore the local eateries and food stalls in Hapoli Market, offering a variety of Arunachali cuisine including bamboo shoot curry, smoked pork, and local rice beer. (Rs 100 onwards).

 

Ziro Puto: Known for its traditional Apatani cuisine, Ziro Puto serves authentic dishes like Apong (rice beer), Pika Pila (fermented fish chutney), and Gyapa Khazi (meat curry). (Rs 150 onwards).

 

Dree Restaurant: A popular spot for local Tibetan and Chinese cuisine, offering dishes like momos, thukpa, and stir-fried noodles. (Rs 50 onwards).

 

Ziro Valley Resort (map link): Check this place out for a fine dining experience with a menu featuring gourmet Indian and Continental dishes. (Rs 500 onwards).

Where to shop

The local markets in Ziro have some amazing traditional Apatani handicrafts, bamboo products, handwoven textiles, and tribal jewellery. You can even visit handicraft centres and cooperatives like the Apatani Cultural Landscape Development Society to purchase handmade items directly from local artisans. (Rs 200 onwards). 

Locations To Explore

• Explore the scenic trails surrounding Ziro with trekking expeditions to spots like Talley Valley (map link), Meghna Cave Temple (map link), and Pine Grove (map link). I suggest you hire a local guide—price Rs 500—who can take you to the best spots. You can even rent a bicycle for as little as Rs 50 and explore the picturesque landscapes of Ziro at your own pace, cycling through villages, rice fields, and lush forests. 
• Visit Apatani villages where the Ziro Music Festival is held.

Chaukori, Uttarakhand

Chaukori, nestled in the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand, is situated at an altitude of approximately 2,010 metres (6,594 feet) above sea level. This elevation contributes to its cool and pleasant climate, making it an ideal destination for travellers wanting to enjoy the scenic beauty of the Himalayan foothills and seeking respite from the heat of the plains.

Where to stay

 

Homestays: Hill Queen Homestay (Rs 1,000 to Rs 2,000 per night) and Chaukori Homestay (Rs 800 to Rs 1,500 per night) are great and they include friendly hosts, home-cooked meals, clean and comfortable rooms, and a peaceful environment. 

 

Camping: Himalayan Camp (Rs 1,200 to Rs 2,500 per night) is super as they feature basic camping facilities, scenic location, and opportunities for nature walks and trekking.

 

Mid-range hotels: Himalayan Mount View Resort (Rs 2,500 to Rs 4,000 per night) and KMVN Tourist Rest House (Rs 2,000 to Rs 3,500 per night) are recommended. The former is a small hotel that offers room service and an on-site restaurant—while the latter is known as the best traveller’s hostel in Chaukori. 

 

Budget hotels: Hotel Himshikhar (Rs 1,200 to Rs 2,500 per night) and Hotel Kaushlaya Residency (Rs 1,000 to Rs 2,000 per night). Both hotels offer room service, Wi-Fi and comfortable rooms.

 

Luxury hotels: Ojaswi Resort (Rs 4,000 to Rs 6,000 per night) features spacious rooms, modern amenities, an in-house restaurant and scenic views of the Himalayas. The Misty Mountains (Rs 3,500 to Rs 5,500 per night) is good too. 

Eating out 

 

Himalayan Resort: This restaurant is known for its cosy atmosphere, serves both vegetarian and non-vegetarian food. (Rs 350 onwards). 

 

Himshikhar Restaurant: They are known for serving hearty vegetarian meals. (Rs 100 to Rs 300 per person). 

 

Bhimtal Restaurant: They serve traditional Indian vegetarian meals in a serene setting. (Rs 150 onwards).

 

Local options: Scattered around Chaukori are several local dhabas and tea stalls offering simple and affordable meals. These places are great for a quick snack or a cup of tea and some local delicacies like parathas or pakoras. 

 

Where to shop 

In Chaukori, while there may not be large commercial markets, visitors can find small local shops and markets where they can shop for locally made handicrafts, souvenirs, and traditional Kumaoni items like woollen shawls, caps, and wooden artefacts from nearby villages and markets. Prices are very affordable.

 Locations to explore

• Sunrise Point (map link): It’s ‘the’ place to go to. You can witness the panoramic vistas of the snow-capped peaks, including Nanda Devi and Panchachuli, cocooned in the warm light of the early morning sun. 
• Patal Bhuvaneshwar (map link) is located around 38 kilometres from Chaukori—this ancient cave temple is known for its intricate rock formations and legends associated with Hindu mythology. And if you are on the spiritual route, you can also visit the Nag Devta Temple (map link).
• Berinag (map link) is 10 km from Chaukori, you can visit ancient temples here. 
• Take a day trip to Munsiyari (map link), located approximately 95 kilometres from Chaukori. Known for its spectacular vistas of the Panchachuli peaks and the Milam Glacier. 
• Enjoy a scenic trek to Chineshwar Waterfall (map link) or the amazing Chaukori Orchidarium to witness a diverse collection of orchids and other exotic flowers. 

Vagamon, Kerala

Vagamon—nestled amidst the Western Ghats in Kerala—is another ‘far from the maddening crowds’ hill station renowned for its verdant tea plantations, pine forests, and cascading waterfalls. Situated at an altitude of approximately 1,100 metres (3,609 feet) above sea level, Vagamon's pleasant climate throughout the year makes it an ideal destination for a peaceful getaway. 

Where to stay

 

Homestays: Misty Monarch Homestay (Rs 1,000 to Rs 2,000 per night) and Vagamon Green Meadows Homestay (Rs 800 to Rs 1,800 per night). They feature a homely atmosphere, local cuisine, clean rooms, and an opportunity to experience local culture. 

 

Camping: Vagamon Eco Lodge (Tent Camping Orange Valley) (Rs 1,500 to Rs 3,000 per night) feature tented accommodation, bonfire facilities, and activities like trekking and nature walks.

 

Mid-Range Hotels: Green Hill Estate (Rs 3,000 to Rs 5,000 per night) and Winter Vale Green Stay (Rs 2,500 to Rs 4,500 per night). They feature cosy cottages, restaurants, nature walks, and beautiful views.

 

Budget Hotels: Vagamon Tourist Home (Rs 1,500 to Rs 2,500 per night) near the popular landmarks of Vagamon offers clean rooms and room service. Spice Garden Resort (Rs 1,200 to Rs 2,200 per night) is a hill-top cottage that offers bonfires, off-road safaris and Kerala style food.

 

Luxury Hotels and Resorts: Chillax Vagamon (Rs 6,000 to Rs 9,000 per night) and Vagamon Heights (Rs 5,000 to Rs 7,500 per night).

Eating out

The Kissing Mountains: This restaurant offers local as well as international cuisine. (Rs 350 onwards).  

 

Mountain View Cafe, Tea Garden Restaurant (map link) and Vagamon Heights—that serves biryani and beef and fish curries—are also good places to eat at. (Rs 500 onwards) 

 

Local options: If you have an adventurous palate, the best places to eat at are local restaurants. Enjoy refreshing cups of tea, local snacks, and light meals at quaint cafés and tea stalls scattered across Vagamon. Many offer Kerala cuisine as well. (Rs 50 to Rs 200 per person). 

 

Where to shop

Explore local markets in Vagamon to shop for souvenirs, spices, and handmade crafts like bamboo products, wooden artefacts, and traditional Kerala handicrafts. There are spice markets, artisanal cooperatives and tea factory outlets. A trip to spice plantations to purchase fresh spices like cardamom, pepper, and cinnamon, as well as herbal products and essential oils should be pencilled in.

Locations to explore

• Explore spots like Thangalpara (map link), Muruganmala (map link), and Kurisumala (map link) for guided trekking. (From Rs 500 to Rs 1500 per person).
• Paragliding is popular and you can paraglide over the picturesque landscapes of Vagamon. Tandem flights and training sessions are available for adventure enthusiasts. (Rs 2000 onwards).