Good times in Tashkent: A travel guide

Editor’s note: Agrima Thakur takes us on a tour of the Uzbeki capital of Tashkent—with quaint bazaars, majestic mosques, sheesha lounges—beside Brutalist post-Soviet architecture and stunning metro station art. The guide also features advice from Sabiha Samar—a resident of Tashkent—and research consultant in the F&B sector.

Written by: Agrima Thakur is a Mumbai-based freelance writer, researcher and orthodontist. Thakur writes on science, gender and the environment—apart from medical research. You can follow her on Instagram and read some of her writings here. 

Over to Agrima…

Somewhere in the middle of the vast Central Asian steppes and mountains, lies a country with a special historical heritage—I refer to the formidable Timurid empire and erstwhile Soviet colonialism. Uzbekistan is a relatively young country, having gained independence from the USSR only in 1991. Its capital, Tashkent, was an important city during the country’s Soviet past—and now houses a multi-ethnic, multilingual population. A huge part of Uzbekistani culture resonates with India—the art, history, architecture, food and even the Bollywood-Arabic inspired music. 

Why go to Tashkent? Pleasant weather, great food and unique sights. If you’re a history buff like me and my brother (yes, we did a 10-day siblings-only trip), you're in for a treat. The visuals are a one-of-a-kind melange of serene, majestic mosques and Madrassas existing alongside orderly grey-toned Soviet city-planning and Brutalist post-Soviet architecture. A huge colourful wall mural right opposite the tranquil yet impactful memorial of Lal Bahadur Shastri (our country’s second PM) seems on-brand for the city. Aesthetically pleasing metro stations curated for specific themes? Tashkent has been there, done that. If I manage to convince you to visit Uzbekistan in the next few minutes, here’s what you’ll need to know:

How to get there?

There are daily flights from Delhi to Tashkent, the journey being approximately 3 hours long. The visa process is fairly uncomplicated, and an e-visa application 1 week prior to your trip can get you access to Uzbekistan. Their time zone is only an hour ahead of IST, which ensures barely any disturbance in your circadian rhythm, so you’re fresh and energetic to explore the city.

The basic FAQ

Language: The Uzbeki language is similar to Turkish and vastly incomprehensible to non-speakers (the Turkish drama fan in me immediately noted the similarity). If you listen carefully, you may recognise a few Urdu/Persian words (Darwoza, Tandir, Do’st). Russian is the second most commonly spoken language. Google Translate is your buddy if you visit the country since very few people speak English or Indian languages. That being said, the Uzbeki people do know their Bollywood lyrics well, so a hypothetical antakshari session with them should not be a problem!

Currency: While Uzbekistani Som is the official currency used in Tashkent, USD is also widely accepted. Most of the hotel transactions/ big purchases may be billed in dollars, which the locals will be more than happy to accept. However, for smaller purchases like cab fare, food and local shopping, use of the local currency is preferable if you want to avoid being ripped off. A quick ATM stop at the airport or anywhere in the city can get you access to Uzbekistani Som—the smallest denominator for exchange being 1000. (1000 Uzbekistani Som equals Rs 6.58). 

Dressing: Apart from religious places (Mosques/Madrassas) where women are required to wear covered clothes and headscarves, there aren’t many dress restrictions in the city. Tashkent enjoys a metropolitan culture due to Russian and East Asian influences, and you can witness the locals owning their cool OOTDs in the latest Korean and Japanese fashion trends, casually walking around, minding their business.

Connectivity: Most international roaming plans cover Uzbekistan. However, if you are planning a longer trip and visiting more places than just Tashkent, getting your hands on a local SIM card is wise. You will find a number of companies offering 1-month plans at the arrivals area of the airport, with unlimited data at reasonable rates (we got a 100 GB U Cell data plan with unlimited calling for around Rs 650). We didn't face any connectivity issues throughout our trip, and we travelled to seven cities in the country. Also, most establishments provide wifi, and there are stalls at public places where you can even pay and charge your devices, in case they run out of battery!

Where to stay: Luxury options

Hotel Uzbekistan: One of the most iconic buildings in the city houses this hotel. The expanse is so impressive that it serves as a fitting background to the monumental Amir Timur Square. The central location (a 2-minute walk will take you to a metro station, 2-3 museums, the Palace of International Forums and Broadway Street amongst other landmarks) is just the first of its many pluses—traditional Ikat (Uzbekistani cotton fabric) drapery, extensive food options, multiple in-house facilities and fabulous lawn landscaping. A regular suite at this hotel can cost you between Rs 9000 to Rs 15000 a night.

InterContinental Hotel Tashkent: Another prominent structure in the Tashkent skyline, this centrally located hotel stands loud and proud behind the main city square (the Amir Timur square). It promises a gorgeous city view from the rooms, a literal Hamman inside the hotel, a really elaborate gym and delicious sushi at the restaurant. A night at this place is chargeable from Rs 17,000 onwards.

Hilton Tashkent City: A 21-storied building (one of the tallest in Tashkent) houses the gorgeous Hilton Hotel, which screams ‘quiet luxury’ at first glance with its subtle but classy interiors. There’s a famous pan-Asian restaurant and bar on the rooftop and classic Russian aristocratic-themed lobbies and conference halls. Ideal for me—time pampering, or business meetings, or both! Rent starts from Rs 20,000 per night.

Where to stay: Luxury with a theme

Shoxjahon Hotel: For the extravagant Uzbekistani experience. This hotel offers intricate, locally themed interiors with modern rooms. The swimming pool and Spa are note-worthy for their typical Central Asian blue-green and brown tile work, giving the guests a royal, unforgettable feeling of luxury.  This hotel is priced between Rs 6,000 to Rs 10,000 per night. 

Royal Mezbon Hotel & Spa: This place is Royal-coded. There’s 12-feet-tall silken drapery, magnificent carpets, a massive lobby, grand pillars with golden carvings, and whatnot. Go there for the overall royal feel. Maybe you'll remember your royal roots from a previous birth? Nevertheless, a weekend stay here will cost you between Rs 10,000 to Rs 20,000. 

Where to stay: Mid-range options 

Art Group: The prominent Art group has a chain of hotels all across the city, offering accommodation options in the range from hostels (Art Hostel) to mid-range hotels (Art Hotel, Art Elite, House Art Hotel). Our mid-range ‘Art Inn hotel’ was a pleasant stay—spacious, clean with bright and welcoming interiors. If a good breakfast is an important criterion for you (since there aren’t a lot of vegetarian eating options in the city)—then such places will be ideal. You can get accommodation from Rs 3000 to Rs 4500 per night, depending on the tourist season.

Other mentions: Cobbler by Resident, Hotel Taht, and Hotel Rahat Inn (all in beautiful, decorative buildings that really make you question the ‘Brutalist architecture’ tag slapped on former Soviet colonies).

Where to stay: Budget-friendly options 

There are several hostels in Tashkent, but the mid-range hotels and homestays are as good and within a similar price range. A decent budget accommodation inside the city will cost you between Rs 1500 to Rs 2500 per night, depending on the tourist season. The Topchan Hostel was recommended by one of our acquaintances, especially for art enthusiasts—it has a vibrant decor consisting of graffiti and cartoon caricatures all over the walls. Apparently, talented guests even get to leave some contributions behind! Other recommendations for budget stays are Mir Hostel, Old Inn hostel, and Jules Verne Hostel. These usually have bunk beds or dormitory options, with young travellers and backpackers visiting from all around the world. 

How do I get around?

The cabs app Yandex Go offers fast and reasonably priced cabs, when compared to local taxi drivers who might want to extract as much cash as possible from a tourist. However, if you’re willing to break a sweat—a rare possibility if you visit between September to May—it's cold AF then—walking and the metro is the best way to get around the city. The more you walk, the more you see. Charming posters for a Russian circus here or a Ballet show there. Tashkent is a walker’s paradise—wide, well-paved walker paths throughout, neatly lined with trees and flower shrubs. Vehicle drivers are super fast, yet disciplined and rule-abiding when it comes to pedestrian safety. We also noticed zero two-wheeled vehicles in the city—and asking some local acquaintances led us to the fact that they were banned after someone on a bike attempted to assault the President some years back!

What to see: Mosques, metros and memorials 

The Chorsu Bazaar (map): The Chorsu Bazaar is the place for everything. It’s the central market of Tashkent and a must-visit spot. Nestled inside a huge blue-coloured domed structure, the establishment is a great example of soviet modernism infused with the traditional Uzbekistani lifestyle. The bazaar is massive and caters to almost everything one might require in a day. You’ll walk around feeling like a celebrity at this bazaar—because the vendors will call out to you as 'Aishwarya Rai!' or 'Shah Rokh Khan!' at some point (if they think you’re Indian). Tourists and shopping enthusiasts can pick up dry fruits, ceramics, local fabrics (called Ikat), apparel (we underestimated the cold when we visited in late February and a Chorsu bazaar trip really helped!) and really, anything you need. There are sections dedicated to a set of products—a vast area selling meat, another with vegetables, another with baking supplies—the list is endless. The most fascinating was the bread section- rows and rows of vendors selling bread (Uzbek ‘non’), baked treats and cakes in all shapes and sizes—flowers, bricks, hexagons, even bread-shaped bowls and plates (a rather practical solution to the plastic problem I reckon!). 

The Tashkent metro: The city has some of the most beautiful, aesthetic underground metro stations—like the one in the lead image. Going down a subway towards the station gates literally feels like you are being transported into an alternate reality. For example, the closest station to our hotel was the Kosmonavtlar (map), which is space program-themed. It was built to commemorate eminent Soviet cosmonauts like Valentina Tereshkova and Yuri Gagarin—and houses their murals alongside beautiful blue, indigo and white space themed tilework. 

So fascinating are Tashkent’s metro stations that we bought a ticket across the city and stopped at each station to admire the art. Elegant chandeliers light up the underground stations with impressive colours, intricate tilework shows historical figures (there’s even a mural of an Indian princess and sage) or colourful abstract art, and bright blue trains come and go timely, completing the underground alternate reality experience. 

The Amir Timur Square complex (map): Situated in the central part of Tashkent, this massive statue pays homage to Timur the Lame and his horse. Behind it, towards the left, is the iconic building of Hotel Uzbekistan (map), and towards the right, is the Palace of International Forums (map)—a literal massive and elegant palace which houses several Swarovski crystal chandeliers. In front of this lies the State Museum of the Timurids (map), the Tashkent Chimes—a clocktower (map), and Tashkent Broadway alley (map). The entire complex can be explored on foot and even though Timur is associated with an unpleasant history for our country, the grandeur is worth exploring.

The State Museum of the Timurids (map): This museum is dedicated to the Timurid Empire. It is a beautiful white structure topped with an elaborate blue dome (sort of like a hat). The dome has intricate hand-painted artwork on the inside, depicting holy verses and stories. The museum is extensive with the history of the empire, and it documents how Babur (founder of the Mughal empire in India) was actually Uzbek, and so were the architects of the Taj Mahal, apparently!

The Lal Bahadur Shastri Memorial (map): Our late Prime Minister Lal Bahadur Shastri took his last breaths in Tashkent, and the city has an entire street with a small garden dedicated to him. We were pleasantly surprised to see 2 small red flowers offered to him below the bust when we visited. Shastri’s sudden passing is highly debated, with several conspiracy theories surrounding the incident, but the graceful monument put up in his name by the Uzbekistan government looks impactful. You will also appreciate the huge colourful Coca-Cola wall mural right opposite the bust—a testament to the fact that while Tashkent—the city is grey, disciplined, and linear—the Tashkent experience is warm and colourful.

Hazrati Imam complex, Kokaldash Madrassa (map): Located in the ‘old’ Tashkent city, these religious structures stand out prominently with their beautiful blue-green tile work on brown-toned buildings. The huge expanse of the Hazrati Imam complex houses a mosque with gorgeous interiors—pastel-coloured walls with gold paintings and intricate ‘jali’ work. The Kokaldash madrassa stands high and mighty beside the hustle and bustle of the Chorsu bazaar, and five times a day, you can see the men of the market rush towards its gates for their prayers. 

Minor mosque (map): This serene white structure really impresses among the orderly, grey-toned buildings around it. It consists of tall, white minars, with the quintessential Uzbekistani blue-coloured dome peeking between them.

Other notable mentions to explore if you have time are the Holy Assumption Cathedral (map), the Independence Square (map), the Museum of Applied Arts (map)—that exhibits textiles and handicrafts, the Monument of Courage (map), and the Alisher Navoyi Theatre (map)—that stages opera, ballet and symphony performances.

What to eat: Uzbeki food and more

The Chorsu street food market (map): If you want to indulge in some of the most authentic Uzbekistani food—the Chorsu Bazaar is the place. Apart from the bread/ bakery section, there are a number of stalls and smallish eating joints—nothing too fancy—but they serve some amazing local dishes. You can enjoy a fresh-out-of-the tandoor ‘Samsa’ (a baked meat Samosa) or Plov (meat-based Biryani/ Pulao cooked in a tandoor), which are like the Central Asian cousins of Indian food. Interestingly, Tashkent was also the only place in Uzbekistan where we got both chicken and vegetarian options for Samsa—subtly spiced and heavenly to eat. We are guilty of having made 3 trips in 2.5 days to Chorsu (a metro station just beside it makes it super convenient) just to relish hot Samsa and Chai.

Tashkent Broadway (map): The walking street just next to the famous Amir Timur Square (map) has been converted into a pedestrian-only street, with multiple stalls serving street food. There are also cafes/coffee shops with street seating where you can grab a bite and take in the wonderful outdoor ambience—peppy Uzbekistani music playing, friends getting together for coffee, children running about, and tourists getting their caricatures done by cartoonists. It’s lively—but it shuts down by 10 pm—so a good plan would be to walk from the LBS street, check out the church, the Amir Timur Square, the palace, the Timurid museum and later unwind at Tashkent Broadway in the evening. 

Eating out: Restaurants like the Anjir milliy taomlar (Shota Rustaveli street, map) and Al-Fajr milliy taomlari (Beshyogoch street, map) serve good Central Asian food. Sip some lemon Chai and dive into juicy kebabs, ground beef noodles, and lamb soup. Shashleek—which is a common dish of the region comprising marinated meat cooked on coals—usually served with some thinly sliced onion is best enjoyed at the eponymous restaurant Shashleek (map) that is located at the centre of Tashkent, right next to the recreational Ecopark. 

Vegetarian options are limited at Tashkent, and if you are a vegetarian but not a fan of salads (like me, a catch-22 situation), you might need to carry some ready-to-eat food options. That being said, if you are okay with mock meat and love pizzas, Roni Pizzeria (map) is a great option which serves Neapolitan pizzas. Or head to Portofino (map) which serves Italian and has vegan options.

Cafe Dietka and Credo Restaurant (map): This place serves a special spread of food with some delicious local wines, making it a fine place for a fancy meal. With beautiful Central Asian-themed interiors, it is located right across the street from the Timurid Museum, has a gorgeous flowered-sidewalk near its entrance and is frequented by a number of tourists. 

Fillet Restaurant (map): This is another notable culinary experience—a European-style restaurant serving gourmet food and Uzbek Riesling. Known for its perfectly done steaks, uniquely plated meals and tasteful interiors—this place is perfect for a celebration meal with family and friends. 

Besh Qozon (map): This is a very popular restaurant near the Tashkent TV Tower serving authentic Uzbeki food. Pilaf—a traditional dish made of rice, carrots and mutton—is the most sought-after dish among diners.  

Still need more? If you want to try a lesser-known cuisine of neighbouring Georgia, visit Gruzinski dvorik (map) which is a tad pricey but offers a sumptuous kharcho soup and the signature dish of Georgian egg and cheese pie—Khachapuri. They also serve Chacha—a Georgian brandy. Another Georgian option is Pro.khinkali (map) that serves an authentic Khinkali—a Georgian dumpling and an extensive Georgian wine menu. 

Meat connoisseurs will love visiting Qanotchi (Kushbegi street, map), a popular establishment serving everything meat-based—steak, burgers and Doner kebabs. Another superb alternative for burgers is West cheesesteak and burgers (map). 

If you’re missing home, there is a Bollywood-themed restaurant in the Le Grand Hotel in Tashkent, which pays homage to Raj Kapoor—aptly named Raaj Kapur (map). A couple of tourists at a table near us got a special discount simply because their name ended with ‘Kapoor’! Other great Indian options include Curry House (map) and The Host (map).

Where to chill: Cafes, lounges and bars  

Cafes: The Bon! chain of cafes is great if you’re missing the OTT boujee patisserie experience. After visiting the Bon! Shevchenko (map), we realised that a beautiful cafe with good coffee is a universal mood-lifting experience. You can also check out things like Beanberry (map) and June (map). However, while there are many cute coffee shops throughout the city, Chai (brewed black/ green tea), which is served everywhere on the house—is the real MVP in this cold desert.

You can also reserve a table at Winesday (map) which is a quaint cafe with a cosy and warm atmosphere and has a menu with good wine and food pairings. Vegan options are also available. 

Sheesha lounges: You’re not going to be in a Central Asian desert and not take a puff of the cherished and regal pastime of hookah, are you? Fair warning—sheesha is not safer or less harmful than smoking cigarettes—more on that here. Bars and joints offering the waterpipe recreation include Maqom bar (map), Steam bar (map) and Skandalist bar (map) that offer indulgent cocktails, live bands and plenty of vibes. For an upper-end experience you can opt for the Sette restaurant and bar (map) at the rooftop of the Hyatt which also serves Italian cuisine.

Nightlife: Nightlife in Tashkent is limited but inviting, and Saturday night is probably the best time to plan for a bar crawl. We learnt that tourists, exchange students, business executives visiting the city and locals visit some of the urban pubs like Steam Bar (map), the Time Bar (map), and the CMI Bar (map). 

Steam is definitely check-worthy with a Darth-Vader-goes-underwater sort of decor. Doing their submarine shot will make you feel very accomplished—the underwater helmet with negative-pressure tactics to get to your drink—the theatrics of it all. The real fun is when bits of Russian and Uzbekistani pop songs play in between the usual English-based club music, and we were told by a young fan that Uzbeki pop singer Yulduz Usmonova is ‘literally mother’ for generations of Tashkent party-goers. 

Near Tashkent: The Uzbekistan experience only just begins at Tashkent. It is a wonderful, lively and unique country with lots to offer to tourists. So definitely go to Tashkent, but do not miss out on other historical sites along the ancient Silk Route—like Samarkand, Khiva and Bukhara—if you can. The famous high-speed ‘Afrosiyob’ bullet train takes just about 2 hours to reach Samarkand—one of the oldest and grandest cities in Central Asia. In fact, the Autonomous Republic of Karakalpakstan (Northwest region of the country) and its cities Nukus and Muynak near the now-disappearing Aral Sea are quite off the radar of tourists but extremely visit-worthy as well.