Doublin' Down on Dublin: A wholesome guide
Editor’s note: Most of us flock to the usual destinations in Europe—London, Paris, Barcelona—and overlook the many charms of Dublin. Go beyond Guinness beer and leprechauns—and discover a warm, bustling city—with a stunning coastline, little-known museums and, yes, excellent pub crawls.
Written by: Noor Anand Chawla is an independent lifestyle journalist who writes on travel, fashion, art, culture, food, health and technology. Her work has appeared in Mint Lounge, Reader’s Digest, HT Brunch, Firstpost and more. You can follow her on Instagram.
Over to Noor…
Leprechauns, pots of gold, Guinness beer, happy magnanimous people—Ireland is often identified with these stereotypes. In reality, however, this island country in western Europe has much more to offer. There is nearly 3,200 km of a beautiful coastline boasting natural scenery dating back millennia, a rich history spanning the rule of the Vikings to a robust independence movement against the British, a sparkling and cosmopolitan capital city, and noteworthy cultural icons like William Butler Yeats and Oscar Wilde. My visit to Ireland this summer was very memorable.
We stayed in Dublin and dedicated an entire day to a driven tour across the coastline known as the Wild Atlantic Way, starting in Dublin on the west coast of Ireland to the Cliffs of Moher on the east coast. Along the way, we stopped at beautiful spots like Bunratty Castle, Ennistymon Falls, Lahinch Golf Course, the picturesque village of Doolin which has Europe’s largest stalactite, and the Burren National Park with stunning natural formations.
It was a lovely, jampacked visit and I will certainly return to explore more aspects of this beautiful country. I hope this visual tour of my trip will make you want to visit it too.
Where to stay
When visiting Ireland, it’s best to base yourself in Dublin and travel around the relatively small island nation from here. As my cousin is a resident of this city, we stayed in her home. From here we explored the Capital city on foot and the entire coastline of Ireland by car.
The city is built around Trinity College Dublin. Therefore, staying close to this landmark in the city centre is the easiest way to access many of its main sites. Other popular areas that are walking distance from the city centre include Portobello, Ballsbridge and Southside. You can also stay in picturesque village towns in the suburbs of Dublin, such as Dalkey, Killiney and Dun Loaghaire, for a chance to mingle with celebrities like Bono of U2 and actor Cillian Murphy of Oppenheimer fame. These areas are connected to the city centre through the DART Line.
As I didn’t stay in a hotel, my selection of accommodation in Dublin is based on the recommendations of my cousin and her friends, as well as family members who have stayed in them.
Budget-friendly options: Youth hostels like Abbey Court and Jacobs Inn, which are a short walk from Trinity College are popular for being clean and spacious. (Hostels begin €14; Rs 1200 per night)
AirBnBs in and around the large park in the city centre known as St. Stephens’ Green (map) are also popular budget stay options.
Mid-level options: The Grafton, located in the heart of the city, is a modern hotel built in the art deco style. This green hospitality certified hotel also boasts a popular bar and restaurant known as Bartley’s. (Rooms from €161; Rs 14,700)
The Iveagh Garden Hotel is a relatively new hotel located in the city centre and the first one in Europe to be awarded the tag of ‘fully sustainable hotel’. This 4-star property has beautiful gardens which offer fresh ingredients for cocktails and dishes served at the hotel’s Elle’s Bar and Bistro. (Rooms from €109; Rs 9,900)
Schoolhouse Hotel in the Ballsbridge area beside the canal, has been converted from a school building into a comfortable and chic hotel. Set amidst lush natural surroundings, Schoolhouse Hotel was earlier the St. Stephen’s National School built in 1859 which was a vivid part of Irish history including the Easter Rising of 1916. (Rooms €159; Rs 14,500)
High-end options: The Shelbourne: If you are keen to splurge on your stay, the most popular five star hotel in Dublin is The Shelbourne, looking onto St. Stephen’s Green. It first opened its doors in 1824, and was the preferred choice for the who’s who of Ireland and Europe. It was also where the Constitution of the Irish Free State was written (in a suite now known as the Constitution Suite), and has hosted a number of high-profile guests over the years including President John F Kennedy and Grace Kelly. (Rooms €409 euros; Rs 37,300)
First, the basic FAQ…
Will language be a problem? The predominant language spoken in Ireland is English, owing to its long-standing status as a colony of England. However, the Irish accent is quite strong. Do train your ear to familiarise yourself with basic words!
What currency do I need? Since Ireland has chosen to remain with the European Union, the currency in use here is the Euro.
Do I need to apply for a separate visa to Ireland if I’m visiting England on the same trip? Indian nationals with a valid tourist visa to the UK, can benefit from the joint British and Irish Visa Scheme (BIVS). The only conditions for this scheme to work are that you must have ‘BIVS’ printed on the visa and you must visit the country which issued the visa to you before travelling to the other one. You must also return to the visa issuing country within the time period specified by its border control.
How do I get around? Dublin is a walkable city, especially if you choose to stay near the city centre. Public transportation is also readily available. In most cases, you may need to rely on a combination of walking and public transport, as the last mile
connectivity is missing in some parts. Public transportation includes buses, a tram system called Luas, and the intercity train. Cycling is also a popular option with services like NOW DublinBikes providing a self-service bike rental across the city.
The Luas tram system plies from the north to the south and the east to the west, which means people are at most a 20-minute walk from any station, no matter which part of the city they are in. The DART line plies closer to the coast connecting the villages in the suburbs of Dublin to its city centre.
The Transport for Ireland (TFI) Leap Visitor Card is a cost-effective transportation option for tourists. It allows unlimited travel on public transportation for a modest fee starting at 8 euros for one day, which reduces as the number of days increases.
Heading out of Dublin…
Several tour companies offer day-long rides along the coast of Ireland, starting and ending in Dublin. You can choose from cost-effective bus tours to semi-private coaches and pricey, luxurious private cab hires. Some of the best guided tour companies include Viator and Coastline Tours. The advantage of pre-booking a driven tour is the insight you get on each place from your driver and guide and a pre-mapped route with clean and safe stops along the way to use restrooms and to eat.
You can also hire your own car and drive down the coastline at leisure. Companies like Auto Europe, Kayak and SIXT are popular for car rentals. The prices for these depending on the car and the service, start at 21 euros per day; Rs 1900.
What to see in Dublin
City Centre walk: Trinity College Dublin is the site around which the city is built. This iconic building was made in the Ruskinian Gothic style of architecture. Its famous Long Room is home to the Book of Kells, which is an illuminated book of gospel dating back to the 9th century, written in Latin and accompanied by beautiful illustrations.
From here, one can walk to other popular sites in the centre of the city, including St. Patricks’ Cathedral which is the largest cathedral in Ireland, and Christ Church Cathedral dating back 1000 years. St. Stephen’s Green (map), a popular spot for
picnickers in the summer and Grafton Street for shopping are other popular sites located a stone’s throw away from Trinity College Dublin.
Dublin Castle: Originally constructed in 1204, this castle served as the residence of the British Viceroy during the British reign. A fire destroyed parts of it in the 17th century and a new castle was built, which stands till today. After Ireland’s independence from the British, it’s the preferred location for the government to celebrate events of national importance. Tickets for adults start from 8 euros; Rs. 700.
Little Museum of Dublin: Located just off Grafton Street, this museum is housed in a beautiful Georgian townhouse. It contains items donated by the public which offer a glimpse into the history of this vibrant city. Guided tours are the only way to access most parts of the museum. Prices start at 15 euros for a 30-minute tour; Rs. 1300.
Want more museums? Specialised museums worth a visit in Dublin include the Irish Whiskey Museum where one can learn about the history of Irish whiskey, the National Museum of Ireland outlining the story of Ireland till the present, and the Kilmainham Gaol Museum which shines a light on one of the oldest jails in Ireland which housed a number of important political prisoners.
Guinness Storehouse Brewery: No visit to Ireland is complete without visiting the home of Ireland’s most famous import—Guinness beer. Book a 90-minute tour of the Guinness Storehouse (starting from 24 euros per person; Rs 2100) which sits in the same building that founder Arthur Guinness first signed a 9000-year lease on.
The self-guided tour takes you across multiple floors of this Guinness pint glass shaped building, sharing a glimpse into the production process and stories of this iconic beer. It ends with a delicious pint of Guinness.
A taste of whisky: If whisky is more up your alley than beer, you may prefer a whisky tasting and tour at famed distilleries like Jameson and Teeling. Tours start at 26 euros; Rs 2300.
Taking a tour bus: Many may mock tour buses but they often give you a quick peek when you’re short of time—and energy to come up with your list. I recommend the Vikings Tour Bus. What begins as a bus tour turns into a boat tour once these amphibious World War II DUKWs enter the Grand Canal basin. Be prepared to be get a little damp as you get a history lesson.
Phoenix Park: This enclosed public park in the centre of the city is popular for its free-roaming deer. The Dublin Zoo is also located here, along with Victorian Flower Gardens, a cafe and tea rooms.
Where to chill in Dublin
Where to drink: The Irish love to drink! So, there’s no better way to chill out than through an authentic pub crawl. There are plenty of options available online and most will combine traditional Irish pubs with newer modern bars. The Temple Bar Pub is a popular spot, especially during Christmas when it’s beautifully decorated. However, be warned that drinks are very expensive!
Best neighbourhoods: Portobello (map), Ranelagh (map), Rathmines (map), Grand Canal Docks (map), Ballsbridge (map) and Donnybrook (map) are Dublin’s nicest neighbourhoods with lots of chic restaurants and bars. While some of these are located in the centre of town, others are slightly away but are attractive for their artsy and quaint vibe.
Where to eat: As a cosmopolitan city, Dublin has much to offer global culinarians. Check out The Ramen Bar for Asian food, Layla’s Rooftop and Platform 61 for modern European fare, 31 Lennox for an authentic Irish breakfast, Fire Steakhouse for a lip-smacking steak, 3fe for great coffee, and Bunsen Burgers, The Metro Cafe, TriBeCa, Taste Café and Little Pyg for comfort food options. Sophie’s offers Irish specials with a beautiful rooftop view. Butler's in Grafton Street shouldn’t be missed for its delicious chocolate offerings and a visit to Bewley's Tea & Coffee room is a Dublin tradition for its authentic Irish breakfast and coffee.
Where to party: The area best known for its nightlife is South William Street where you can choose from bars and cafes with indoor and outdoor seating. Some popular options include Pygmalion, Grogans Pub, and Dakota for its cocktails. On Fade street, you can check out Bar with No Name, l'Gueuleton for modern French cuisine, Hogans Bar, and IdleWild. Drury Street is best known for the Drury Buildings, The Hairy Lemon, and pmacs pub. Camden Street and Harcourt Street are other areas to party in.
Where to shop: Grafton Street (map) is the main shopping neighbourhood of Dublin. Other places to shop include the Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dundrum Town Centre and O’Connell Street for local boutiques. Popular department stores with high end designers are Brown Thomas and Arnotts and your best bet for budget shopping is Dunnes or Penney’s—the Irish version of Primark.
Beyond Dublin…
Catch a bus: Several tour companies offer day-long rides along the coast of Ireland, starting and ending in Dublin. You can choose from cost-effective bus tours to semi-private coaches and pricey, luxurious private cab hires. Some of the best guided tour companies include Viator and Coastline Tours. The advantage of pre-booking a driven tour is the insight you get on each place from your driver and guide and a pre-mapped route with clean and safe stops along the way to use restrooms and to eat.
Or get a ride: You can also hire your own car and drive down the coastline at leisure. Companies like Auto Europe, Kayak and SIXT are popular for car rentals. The prices for these depending on the car and the service, start at 21 euros per day; Rs 1900.
Treks and cliff walks: Nature lovers will enjoy cliff walks around Howth. You can see gorgeous views of Dublin from here and enjoy delicious locally made fish and chips. Ticknock Mountain is another great site for a long walk worth the views, as are Killiney Hill, Poolbeg Lighthouse and the Sugarloaf Loop Trail.
The Wild Atlantic Driving Tour: A driving tour (either through a bus or private coach) from the West Coast of Ireland to its East Coast is the best way to enjoy the beautiful Irish countryside in a single day. Start in Dublin and drive along the coastline known as the Wild Atlantic Way, while stopping at the following sites: Bunratty Castle, Ennistymon Falls, Lahinch Golf Course, Cliffs of Moher, Doolin, and The Burren National Park.
