Bombay beauties: What you should be doing in the city
Editor’s Note: This is part one of the most detailed guides to Bombay’s crowded arts & culture scene. There are few people more passionate about the city than Arunima—who has spent 12 years exploring all its delightful nooks and crannies... Here’s what you really ought to be doing on your next trip to the Maximum City—from music venues, theatre, architecture and art galleries.
Written by: Arunima Joshua, Advisory editor
Over to Arunima…
I've lived in the frenetic financial capital for the past 12 years. It's a city of salt, sweat and tears. But also of entertainment, events and enrichment. It’s easy to get lost in its bustle—or never stray from the usual haunts. Here instead is a list of escapades in art & architecture that showcase Bombay’s true beauties.
So you wanna see some of that fabled architecture…
The colonial city boasts a rich heritage of Neo-Gothic, Art-Deco, Victorian and Indo-Saracenic styles. They are found in the southern (and older) part of the city. Some are iconic—others are less known to visitors.
BMC Headquarters (map): After 128 years, the Municipal Corporation of Mumbai has opened its doors to tourists and locals who would like a peek inside the grand, palatial structure. It represents the era when Bombay was ‘Urbs Prima of Indis’—the most important city of Colonial India. The tour is fittingly called ‘UrbsPrime’ and all you need to show is your AADHAR card / Driving License or Passport (as a non-Indian citizen) to take it. It is located in the gorgeous Fort neighbourhood. You can book a tour on a weekend at this link. (Price: Rs 350 per person)
Knesset Eliyahoo Synagogue (map): Pronounced ‘ney-sette ili-ya-hoo si-ne-gog’, the azure blue building in Kala Ghoda was built by Baghdadi Jews fleeing persecution in Iraq during the late nineteenth century. The brightly lit place of worship offers gorgeous stained glass windows, chandeliers and neo-classical architecture. Please note: You will have to undergo a brief security check—a precaution taken after the 26/11 attacks. Photography and videography costs are extra so make sure to ask permissions for those.
St. Xavier’s College (map): Founded in 1869 and built in the Indo-Gothic style of architecture, the prestigious college near Dhobi Talao is home to secret corridors and a stunning archival library. I strongly urge you to get a tour from a former or current student. There’s a private museum that houses Mesopotamian seals and other statues and paintings. You can visit it on request. Trust me, this heritage building is a lot more than the ‘Hogwarts of India’.
Sophia College for Women (map): My alma mater! Built in the 1800s, the property has often changed hands over the last 300 years–even serving as a royal residence in the middle. The Neo-classical buildings are known for their distinct pink sandstone colours—and their pretty corridors and marble staircases have made them a favourite of movie and ad directors. It’s easy to get lost in this Breach Candy campus, so get the staff to guide you around its historic grounds.
Eros Cinema (map): The finest example of the Art deco age in Bombay—this legendary cinema hall near Churchgate is on the list of World Heritage sites. Be sure to catch a late night show at the theatre when it’s lit up in all its glory.
David Sassoon Library and Reading Room (map): This beautiful reading room in Kala Ghoda has been lovingly restored to its original Gothic beauty. You can easily lose a day among its 30,000 books in five languages–sitting at the teak tables with classic green bankers lamps. A marvel of Jewish-Indian heritage, the library features Victorian arches, tiles from England and ornate metal chandeliers.
So you want to have an artsy day…
The National Gallery of Modern Art (map): The NGMA is the best known—and needs no introduction. Its exhibits are always fascinating and worth your time. Entry fee is a paltry Rs 20–so it's an astonishingly cheap trip into Indian history. Please note the gallery is closed on Mondays and national holidays.
Method Art Space (map): The independent gallery exhibits up-and-coming young millennial and Gen Z artists. Some of the most whacky, cheeky and avant-garde works are on display at its main branch of Kala Ghoda. The excellent bit: These are also available for sale—be it as prints or originals. They also hold cool events including album launches, dance performances and more whimsical zillenial happenings. On a work day, you can drop by either its Bandra (map) or Juhu (map) locations for a day of co-working with coffee, croissants with contemporary art.
Chemould Prescott Road (map): The humble origins of this Fort-located art gallery have a little to do with the chemical moulding in its name. The founders—Kekoo and Khorshed Gandhy—started out as framers—working with the earliest pioneers of modern art in Mumbai–such as M. F. Husain and S. H. Raza. A relationship that birthed this illustrious gallery. This is a must-visit in your South-Mumbai art gallery list.
Art & Charlie (map): This comparatively new gallery in the heart of Bandra is both a performance space and art gallery. It hosts art shows, film screenings, stand-up comedy and a design shop. This is home to young and experimental artists. Look for installations, ceramic art and photography—apart from the usual digital and mixed media art. It is only open from Wednesday to Sunday.
So you like live music…
Bonobo (map): A personal favourite—it hosts live gigs every Wednesday with a diverse calendar of bands–spanning jazz, Rajasthani folk, brass bands, bossa nova, and R&B. Die-hard music aficionados can be spotted on Wednesdays at this Bandra venue. Entry is usually free or at most Rs 300. Weekends at Bonobo offer a completely different scene. Fridays and Saturdays showcase some of the most firestarter DJs from Mumbai and around the world. Beware: the dance floor is gritty, sweaty and not for the faint–hearted.
antiSOCIAL (map): The Lower Parel venue has something going on six days a week. They typically host Indian indie acts on weekdays and Techno artists on weekends—and change it up with dance workshops, open mics and pop-up fleas. The programming includes everything from sufi bands to heavy metal and international electro renegades. Check out their monthly calendar on Instagram to keep track. Entry fees start at Rs 500 Rs and can go up to Rs 2000.
The Bluebop Cafe (map): This Khar West cafe serves excellent desserts, croissants and burgers. On Friday nights, however, it turns into a cosy jazz bar with curated cocktails and live bands. The finest jazz ensembles play Bluebop with jam sessions, blues classics and latin and funk odes. Don’t miss this one if you’re looking for some elegant vintage vibes.
The Cube, NMACC (map): Located at Bandra-Kurla Complex, this intimate performance space curates everyone from big ticket acts like Blackstratbules and Sid Sriram to up-and-coming indie bands and old-school artists like Rupa Sen (retro disco-jazz). The 125 seater venue is a little uppity. If you’re late they do not let you enter—and make you quietly sneak in when the artist takes a break between songs. So be on your best, punctual behaviour! It’s not a laidback-stand-around-with-drinks venue at all! But you get a rewarding attentive experience. Tickets start at Rs 250 for indie gigs.
Khar Social (map): This happening bar and cafe has the best Thursday night gig in town. Curated by KRUNK, the tastemaker agency hosts ‘Dance OK Please’ which features three DJs who convert the venue into a packed dance floor—with deep cuts from the worlds of electronic and indie music. On Saturdays, the venue also hosts a Hip-Hop night with regular DJs Ishani and Bobkat—who belt out commercial as well as obscure bangers. Entry is always free!
G5A Foundation for Contemporary Culture (map): This Mahalaxmi Mills cultural centre has several venues. My favourite is the ‘Warehouse’ which hosts indie and classical gigs. They are host to baithak concerts to jazz quartets, experimental electronica—and everything current in Indian indie—from dream pop to singer-songwriters. Tickets range between Rs 499 to Rs 750.
Sofar Bombay: The Mumbai leg of this London-born IP is curated by artists and scenesters themselves. As with the others, the lineup and venue are secret—only revealed when you get a confirmed RSVP. The venues can be hair salons to co-working spaces or rug stores—epitomising the quirky idea of Sofar (Sounds from a Room). Expect three live acts—but the artists are not revealed until you turn up at the venue.The genres can be anything from fusion to indie rock to hip-hop. But the rule of thumb is always—100% live music. Sofar is hosted in the city every one to three months. It is ideal for those who are always looking for a live music fix and are sick of routine DJ fare.
Listening sessions at the Revolver Club: This wonderful series is hosted by Vinyl record store the Revolver Club. At their listening sessions, they pick a classic record across jazz, rock, hip-hop, Hindustani classical, Bollywood, funk and more. It is hosted by an aficionado who introduces you to the history of the genre and the fascinating backstory of the album. You can register for the next one by checking out their Instagram.
Pro-tip: After a long night of music, dance and possibly drinks, do take a breather at the nocturnal ‘cyclewala’—to re-energise yourself with chai, coffee, Horlicks—or cigarettes, if that’s your poison. You can find one at any time of the night at a highway or signal in the city.
So you are a theatre-head…
G5A Foundation for Contemporary Culture (map): The multidisciplinary performance centre hosts multilingual plays at their Warehouse venue. Expect indie directors and actors, as well as veterans like Lilete Dubey and Ali Fazal. Tickets start Rs 499 onwards.
Royal Opera House (map): It doesn’t get grander than this. This is India’s only surviving opera house—and it has a UNESCO Cultural Heritage Conservation certificate. Whether you solely want to soak in its old world charm or catch a Broadway style musical, this magnificent beauty is totally worth your while. Tickets are surprisingly affordable—ranging between Rs 300-500 per head.
Sophia Bhabha Auditorium (map): An old-school classic—this is a popular hall for all things theatre. Some of the oldest and most iconic plays—from Shakespeare adaptations in nautanki style to the Vagina Monologues—ever to be performed in India have made their debut at its hallowed stage. Located at the heart of South Mumbai thespians like Jim Sarbh and Boman Irani are often spotted here—either gracing the stage or simply attending. Tickets can range between Rs 499 to 750.
Other popular havens for theatre enthusiasts are NCPA, Nariman Point and Prithvi Theatre, Juhu which are well documented as two of the best halls for the dramatic arts.
Coming up next: In part two of my cultural guide, I look at art studios, comedy clubs, flea markets and more.
